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• #21303
Yeah, I can't find anything MTB specific. I wonder how long these Decathlon ones would last on the bike?
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• #21304
Ha, I’ve looked at decathlon sailing overalls too. They seem like they might feel very bulky.
I ended up selling the Endura onesie, while I loved how dry it kept me, it just didn’t feel practical enough. Not being able to take the jacket off in between uplifts was a downside.
PM’d you about the mech and shifter btw -
• #21305
They seem like they might feel very bulky.
As a wearer of sailing waterproofs I can confirm they are indeed bulky and mainly aimed at waterproofness and durability than any type of breathability or flexibility. Read: they'll suck for cycling.
Bonus pic of one of my ex race boats...
Sailing thread... >>>>>>
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• #21306
That’s proper sailing that is. In a decent wind.
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• #21307
Very off-road
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• #21309
Watched this a couple of days ago. Bonkers
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• #21310
Bonkers speed, terrifying. And it's only a course preview run
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• #21311
That is made to look quite easy... reality would be somewhat different I imagine. Mad skills to nail that while talking it through!
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• #21312
First ride out on the new xc bike yesterday, at a trail centre no less. Bike was mostly fine for all of the trails, but some of the rock gardens would have been much nicer with the addition of a dropper.
Bike has iccr cable routing (fancy name for internal cable routing), and from the minimal information I could find online, it looks like I route the cable around the bb and up the seat tube:
Which is fine, but then there are a handful of blanking plates on the drive side that confuse me as this bike is supposedly 1x specific:
Anyone else on here got a Scott scale and can advise on best approach for dropper routing? And also what the blanking plates are for?
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• #21313
From looking at the top pic, I’m guessing the blanking plates on the seat tube is to allow a front mech holder, and the one on the down tube is for the cable?
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• #21314
my trek is very similar (also XC bike)
blanking plates and that stop in DT is for front mech
you have to route dropper in DT > ABOVE BB shell (assuming pressfit) > into ST
its a pain, you will need lots of tea and patience, that angle is hard to get the outer bent around
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• #21315
or get AXS dropper ;)
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• #21316
Remote droppers are an absolute win
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• #21317
And also unobtainable (currently).
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• #21318
Just take one side and inner shell of the bb out. You'll have it done in 5 min then.
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• #21319
The trouble I’m facing is that I’m right in between two dropper sizes. Most 125mm droppers are right on the edge of being too short, and 150mm are on the edge of being too long. Right now I can get away with either, just about, but if I ever change saddle or shoes, it could mean that the 125mm is then too short (if I get a saddle with reduced stack), or the 150mm too long (if I get saddle with increased stack).
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• #21320
Could you not get something like the One Up dropper in 150mm and then shim it down if it's too long?
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• #21321
None available in 31.6 diameter at the minute.
So I’ve been measuring all afternoon, the furthest I can put a post into my frame is 21.5cm, and with my current saddle I’ve got 26.5cm from seat clamp to saddle rails.
I think 150mm is safer because 125mm leaves me right on the edge of minimum insertion.
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• #21322
Nobody wants minimum insertion
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• #21323
.
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• #21324
Realistically most droppers can be shimmed with a bit of tough plastic, just cut to size.
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• #21325
Get a 150mm transx dropper where you can adjust to take 10, 20 or 30mm off the travel
Do any clothing companies make MTB salopettes? I was riding today and in waterproof trousers and overshoes, if I’d had a waterproof panel front and rear covering belly and lower back it would have been near perfect- as it was I scored the occasional big splash that hit my jersey.