Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Unless that crank have a lesser torque than the usual 40-50nm it's very hard to go over that with decent sized tools unless you have baboon arms. Probably won't go anywhere close with home mechanic tools.
I have fitted loads with or without and it always comes to pull as hard as it goes without doing silly stuff like using breaker bars, never managed to break one.

thanks 👍

With square taper cranks I think the issue is many people under torque them. Which is why you get so many fucked nds square taper cranks. “Do it up hard” is very subjective and if using a normal size Allen key a lot of people will struggle to do it tight enough. A torque wrench that does around 50Nm has quite a big lever which indicates it requires a lot of force, try to get the appropriate torque holding it about 8” from the head and you can see why most people don’t get the appropriate tightening on square taper cranks.

Ultegra 6510 9 speed shifter no longer shifting down - doesn't seem to be engaging. So I can push the lever to the side, but it doesn't feel like it's "catching" the mechanism.

Youtube said try spraying some WD 40 in, so I tried the GT85 I had to hand (which then dripped on the rim and I had a nice faff on to clean it all off). Regardless, it still doesn't work.

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-ST-6510-1950A.pdf

Is there a meaningful way to get in to have a look? I've removed screw #5, and I can remove the nut that's on the same rod as #5 thread into. Will that allow further disassembly, or do I need to remove #9 and #10?

There are some similar issues with other STI levers. I wonder if they're the same as what you're experiencing.
My issue was with a few 6700 & 7900 levers not engaging on the up shifts.

There are a couple of similar threads to this:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/358022/

I think your problem might be deeper than that exploded view goes (inside the ratcheting part of the chonky top part of 'main lever assembly')

Mind you. I only started stripping that part of the shifter once I had a replacement fitted. Just a shame it happened to about 3 or 4 levers, this may be their natural death 🤷🏽‍♂️

Thanks dj, I'll probably zip it in to a bike shop for an extra tighten once it is fitted.

I think your problem might be deeper than that exploded view goes (inside the ratcheting part of the chonky top part of 'main lever assembly')

Yeah, I'm a bit stumped as to how I can access any of the actual mechanism. I'm picking up a groupset later off a mate, but figured I'd at least have a look as my brother is coming tonight and we were hoping to get out riding - so fixing the current shifter is preferable to switching over half the groupset.

It feels like one of the teeth has probably worn off, as I have clicks up and down on the two largest rings at the back, but I can't shift down beyond them. The shifters have had a long life, so can't complain too much, but it is a bit annoying to not even be able to get to the mechanism properly.

Found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PDGHoUZ38M

But it looks a bit beyond what I can be arsed with right now. Lots of springs and bits that are likely to be a total faff to get back together for potentially no gain.

You don’t have to ride far on improperly installed cranks to fuck them up.

The taper gets distorted so they get tightened more but never fit properly so get loose, get tightened more, get loose, get tightened more and then crack. I’d hazard most broken square taper cranks are a result of insufficient torque on installation rather than excessive torque.

Hit a brick wall.

The video I posted is for 6501 not 6510.
The 6510 has an extra screw/bolt attaching the lever to the rest of the mechanism, but it’s too tight to get a socket around, and too tight to loosen with a screwdriver.

I tried.

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That is an awkward position.
Got some angled pliers?

I was giving it a proper hard go with the screwdriver and it wouldn't budge so little hope with pliers. As I say, picking up a new groupset tonight, but wanted to at least attempt a repair.

Find a thin walled socket or a friend with a lathe (the best kind of friend).

Although it looks like you've been using a mismatched screwdriver. The right size and type and getting it on a bench / in a vice so you can apply a decent amount of downforce might shift it.

It's neither ph1 or ph2, which makes me think it's JIS - which I don't have. I'm not going to turn a socket to try and disassemble a 15-20 yr old part in the hope of fixing it, lol. I took my shot and failed.

Do you know what preload bolt I would need as a replacement? Cheers

They kinda look like FSA something cranks but you'll probably be best searching whatever they actually are and seeing what's available.

makes me think it's JIS

It will be.

which I don't have

Craziness. Every one should have a set of JIS screwdrivers in their bike fettling box.

I have very few bike specific tools (for my sins). It’s mostly stuff I use for work. I also do the bare minimum of bike maintenance, lol. Hence why I found a love of fixed and S/S!

Marin Forged Alloy 1x10, Hollow Spindle, Direct Mount

I assumed it would be universal

I assumed it would be universal

Haz you biked before?
Probably a rebadged something, there's some specialized bikes that have similar looking but can't say for sure, get some pictures of it if you can get it out or go see your nearest Marin dealer in case it's a spare they can get hold of.

Haz you biked before?

I should have known.

Got a swanky, over priced ENVE Seatpost for my new build.

Fitting a Tailfin for touring work, is there any reason not to use 3M heli tape to help protect the post against the pack mount? Will its stickiness be an issue when it comes to remove it?

Sounds like a good idea to me. It's only sticky on one side, and if that's the side against the pack mount you've fitted it the wrong way round...

hahaha yup thanks for that.

It'll be grand.

WD40 for hours then a hairdryer on hot might loosen it up enough to budge.

I’m not sure if it was even bike related, but I remember seeing a riveted or solid piece of a component that looked like it had a pozidrive slot, but it was actually only to keep the part steady or something and it wasn’t an actual bolt.