Home DIY

What grab adhesive do I want to bond 6mm ply to plasterboard? Screw fix has about 40,000 products all claiming to stick this to that, but does anyone have any real world experience?
It’s 6mm ply so I don’t want anything too thick that won’t compress/flatten easily.

You should really trowel whatever you are using evenly with a fine notched trowel to help even bonding. I guess it depends a little bit on how flat the plasterboard is, is it fixed to studs or loose sheet. What you are doing is a kind of chunky veneer and the glue I've had success with in the past is contact adhesive. You might need to prime the ply to avoid it sucking up all the moisture. Usually you need a roller of some sort to flatten it out.

Interesting idea with the trowling. It’s in my studio so plasterboard is screwed to flat osb.
The issue I think I’ll have with contact adhesive is that there’s no wiggle time to get the ply seated correctly. The top edges of the boards need to slip behind an LED light track and each sheet (there’s 4 on each wall) are spaced with a 6mm shadow gap between them. I’m not making this easy for myself!

A video I saw on YouTube the guy uses grab adhesive gunned into in lots of small circles which created suction when they were compressed. He was using 18mm ply though so the compression was probably easier.

Whatever I use I think I’m going to end up with some kind of elaborate system of supports to keep the boards flat to the wall while the adhesive goes off.

I built a simple frame that held the cement boards in place in the shower whilst the adhesive went off- just pine screwed together as I went. Boards were perfectly vertical when I took the timber down.

CT1, sticks like shite and is great. Not that cheap though.

yeah, we thought about that - how about brass? stainless seems a bit boring...

Brass sheet will be expensive too, stainless was more under budget if copper was too much.

Who is the go-to youtube channel or whatever for tiling? Wanna learn how to do it.

Mother in law is having her bathroom done. They're meant to be tanking the floor and walls. For the floor I was surprised to see they'd put the shower tray and bath in and were going to tank the floor afterwards, I'd assumed you'd do it first.

How would people expect it to be done?

No chance that they are now putting in a mat over the tanking to stop the tiles cracking? I guess I would expect fully tanked not to require a shower tray in any case but a modern tiled bathroom could easily have a tanking sheet under the whole thing with a tiling mat on top wherever it's having tiles.

I have never tanked a bathroom though so couldn't say for sure. It does seem logical that tanking would cover the whole floor and come up the walls a little bit though.

It's not a wet room but it's a second floor bathroom which was previously leaking so decided to go belt and braces.

The wall tanking is the paint on stuff, not sure what they'll be doing for the floor.

Tanking doesn't really feel like the right term, then. It's more like they are making a bathroom that doesn't leak where water is / should be, in the way a regular bathroom should be.

Suspect if you've paid for actual tanking, this will be a problem.

Props for Outcome over Output though on the fitters' part.

Damp saga continues. The cover on the gas meter seems to have worked and there is no longer a damp patch below the gas meter after it rains (from water being channelled behind it).

However, the damp patch on the other side of the wall inside still exists and isn't drying out / continues to be worse after it rains.

What's also weird is that it starts just above the skirting board, but not below?

Ive lifted paint to help it dry out.

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A Google does suggest that painting it on is one of the accepted ways of doing tanking.

It wasn't that much in the scheme of things, a couple of hundred quid I think (and it's not my bathroom).

not sure if go-to (but i’m also planning on having a go) but this guy’s stuff seems fairly comprehensive:
https://youtu.be/nRlZAjtEQ_8

he’s got a few others specific to grouting and other bits and bobs

Ta!

Not DIY but maybe someone here has DIY’d something similar:

I want to pull out this basic bitch rad and replace it with a vertical unit next to the window where the plug socket is.

Floor is engineered wood on floorboards.

What would I be looking at £ wise and disruption wise to have the floor taken up to move the pipe run to connect up the new rad then the floor put back as it was?

Would have the plug socket moved so it can flank a bed placed where the rad was.

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Two new (basic bitch) rads installed while they were swapping our hot water system. Needed floorboards lifted and pipework re-jigged. Charged us £300 for both.

I wouldn't trust them with the engineered wood though, I had to repair the floorboards white heavily.

Today was a learning experience with self levelling compound. First time using it. Main lesson is to be supper fastidious sealing up and form or shuttering. Stuff just loves to seep out through gaps.

I wouldn't trust them with the engineered wood though, I had to repair the floorboards white heavily.

I have some spare lengths of it so could patch it but really I want someone who can do it all without fucking the skirting, flooring and walls whilst being adept at pipes and CH. I suspect this person does not exist :(

I don't think that it's that they can't do it. If I can repair floorboards and make them look ok as a complete luddite, I'm sure someone who works on them all the time could too. It's more likely a "not my problem, mate" situation.

Luckily for me, they hid all the massive splinters and chunks they took out under the floorboard itself. So I was able to just glue and pin the bits back in and sand over.

It's more likely a "not my problem, mate" situation.

Yep I’m looking for a unicorn type.

Really I guess I want a handy decorator / finishing type to come in, take the existing floor up, pull the old rad off, fit the new rad then get a plumber in to connect it then get the finishing person back to make everything good?

My builder has a good and contentious plasterer and decorator pair. And that pair recommended the plumber. In an ideal world, I'd tell you to contact the builder, ask for that pair and get the number of the plumber from them. BUT, the builder is a pain in the dick to deal with.