Which Groupset?

it’s not cycling weather

How very dare you!

Went into town to try on a tailor made wool coat yesterday!

pics? you can DM me.

@Skülly is just champing at the bit for 13 spd Microdrive for the Pederson

Am ashamed to say I have 1x10 on it which is distinctly moderne. Truth is Pedersens had singles when it was old-fashioned.

An update on the 40t expansion. Serviced the clutch, didn't make a difference. Then started to lower the tension. Have to lower it to almost nothing to get the derailleur to shift. Also don't understand why it's struggeling to get from the 19t to the 21t. When the tension is too high, that's where it stops. Shouldn't it just struggle on the big cogs?

That's really odd. Try a smaller cassette or add some links to the chain. Make sure the hanger is straight.

Hanger is straight and longer chain makes no difference. Haven't got a smaller cassette here at the moment but it's a "simple" switch from 34 to 40, 34 used to work w/o any problems.

I tried to check the torque when it does work but it's below 2Nm. (And my torque wrench doesn't go lower)

Moar clutch servicing? Did you pull all the bits off?

longer chain makes no difference.

Makes a difference on how much tension the derailleur exerts. Same about the cassette, worth trying different stuff to find what's causing what.

Sorry, I worded it wrong. I tried a longer chain (116 links) but there was no difference.

Fair enough. Still, it looks like the clutch is the culprit, but hard to know without having a working one to compare. Maybe take it to a shop if it's still in warranty, but may take ages to get a new one.

when the clutch is above the threshold where it sticks how does manually moving the cage feel? does it seem like it is sticking? and when you serviced it what did you do?

only other thing i can think of is that the motor is supplying less force than it should.

also maybe this was mentioned before but i assume b-tension is appropriate? i'd probably have messed with that a bit too.

Forgot it's Di2, it's not just a big/big software thing is it? You been playing with the settings or updated anything?

Few replies:

• the servicing I did was cleaning and greasing the clutch roller
  
• I screwed in the b-tension and should be fine
  
• it's di2 but I haven't touched any settings. Shifting works fine with clutch off
  
  

Next thing I'll try is a full teardown of the derailleur.
Probably a dumb question but is it ok to move a Di2 derailleur by hand? It won't fuck the motor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-iAxH32NlI

Or a self preservation crash mode thing?

Working with the clutch off but not on certainly points to a clutch issue.

We knew this what, ten pages ago!? 😝

Just started from scratch and see if I missed anything. Looked for some more info about the b-screw and distance of the derailleur and maybe I was too conservative. Moved it closer now, is this ok?

(Sorry for hijacking this thread like this)

So long as the jockey teeth aren't touching the cassette teeth you're usually good. On a stand you can pedal it and wind it in and you'll hear the racket when it's too close - back it off from there.

Armchair mechanics but need more room. Enough so you can go from 2nd largest to largest without squashing the pulley against the big sprocket. I'd try anyways.

I think it's fixed. I moved the derailleur as close as possible and tweaked the clutch tension as much as I could. I would like the clutch to be a bit tighter but I think it is fine now. Will go for a ride this weekend and see how it feels. Thanks for all the help, I definitely learned some new things. :)

And I could be wrong but I think the reason it struggled around the 4th and/or 5th sprocket is because that's when the derailleur is the furthest from the cassette, so the angle of the chain isn't as sharp?

We knew this what, ten pages ago!? 😝

I know but seems like it needed restating.

Need to replace GRX RD jockey wheels again (these ones lasted almost 4000km as opposed to the 1500km winter kms it required to get the last pair to look like shurikens)

Once again I am considering if it's worth it to invest in premium alloy jockey wheels. GRX are nice and have sealed bearings, so, good on that, but they seem to wear quickly. Will alloy jockey wheels accelerate the wear on the chain? Be noisier? Will they last so long to the point I have to replace the bearings in them to extend the life?

Furthermore, I can't seem to find any alloy jockey wheels with 13t, but only 11t or 12t. I have the RD-RX810 model (same as RX815 but mechanical, officially rated for 34t cassette) which carries a 13t lower jockey wheel, as opposed to 2x11 used on RD-RX812 (and 817)

I imagine the RD works just fine with 2x11t and the 13t is simply because there is more room (due to having to retain less chain), can someone confirm this? Can I use a 11+12t combo? Any other ideas?

#firstworldproblems

Alloy pulleys will wear the chain a tad quicker, but not significantly so. IE orders of magnitude less than a neglected drivetrain VS a well-kept one. Speaking of clean drivetrains, good maintenance is key, as once the anodisation is gone, the wear rate on those alloy pulleys accelerate dramatically.

I honestly wouldn't bother, from a durability point of view.

I got some CNC ally pulleys last century, won't do that again - noisy.