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• #7602
Hope, their road CL rotors are lovely and very stiff. Work well with my 8020s
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• #7603
Ultegra/Dura Ace rotors are too flimsy. Get the MTB ones if you have to stay with Shimano
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• #7604
I’m using pads from https://gorillabrakes.com/
They’re now on the MTB and gravel bike, cheap and have worked fine to date. I went for metal after burning through a set of expensive SRAM resin pads in a single winter ride
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• #7605
Thanks, I’ll give them a go.
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• #7606
My front brake keeps rubbing badly no matter what I do and Im at my wits end.
I re-aligned the calliper several times, works fine for 5 minutes but the minute I squeeze the lever hard it starts rubbing again.
I took it to a trusted bike shop, they took the calliper off, checked it over, realigned it but it started rubbing again before I even made it home. They suggested that the rotor might be the problem and that I swap it out for a proper SRAM one so I bought a brand new SRAM rotor and had that installed, same problem.
Does anyone have any ideas? -
• #7607
embrace the rub
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• #7608
Haha, if it was a minor rub I could live with it but its pretty severe
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• #7609
Sticky piston? The SRAM brakes run quite close to the rotors (guessing that's why they sold you a SRAM rotor) make sure the rotor is true, spin the wheel and listen for rub, eyeball the rotor down through the caliper and bend rotor in the appropriate direction, keep doing until all is well, a small, clean adjustable spanner makes a good substitute for the proper tool, or very clean fingers in s push. You can also take the pads out and give the spring a bend outwards, sometimes that's enough to keep the pads slightly further from the rotor.
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• #7610
Thanks @snottyotter I'll give that a go over the weekend.
Rotor is brand new and the old one looks pretty straight too so it must be something to do with the piston as you suggest. -
• #7611
New ones aren't always true, if it's rubbing like once per rotation, or is at least on/off rubbing then that's the likely cause, if it's constant then maybe not.
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• #7612
It rubs once per rotation and it gets progressively worse. If I re-align the calliper and spin the wheel it doesn't rub, it only starts to rub once I squeeze the lever firmly. Once its started to rub, if I'm riding and keep using the front brake, it will start to rub worse.
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• #7613
Firm squeeze sounds like maybe the pistons are sticky combined with a slightly out of true rotor, plenty of guides around for cleaning pistons, if you can't find one I'll write it up later, been driving all day and am now cooking so that can wait, just don't pop one right out doing it.
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• #7614
Try the spring thing first though, easy to do and if it fixes it then mostly all good.
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• #7615
Where are you based? Happy to have a look if you are SE1 or SW9.
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• #7616
Ultegra/Dura Ace rotors are too flimsy. Get the MTB ones if you have to stay with Shimano
Flimsy how? I've used most major rotor brands on MTB and Shimano and SRAM on road and can't say I've had issues other than being a twat and glazing the pads and rotors on my MTB in the alps by dragging the brakes coming back into a valley.
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• #7617
Appreciate the offer but don’t go to the trouble on my account, I’m sure I can find a video showing me what I need to do.
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• #7618
Thanks, I’m in E2 but if I can’t sort it out myself SE1 isn’t very far so I may very well take you up on your offer if it’s not too much trouble
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• #7619
What’s the bike and caliper? Sram calipers don’t have the biggest surface area and I have seen them slip on hollow carbon forks. Could possibly be helped by increasing the friction under the boot head and / or caliper depending on the setup?
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• #7620
My SRAM AXS Force flat mount disk calliper bolts are on the verge of rounding (dont ask).
What bolts do I need to replace, would these doodads do the job?
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• #7621
They are prone to rounding. Yes they’re the right ones, just make sure you get the right length, sometimes every bolt can be a different length so measure them all!
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• #7622
Flimsy like they're really easy to bend.
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• #7623
It could be over filled. Is it possible to push the pistons back or they keep popping in?
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• #7624
Fucking SRAM, try spreading the pistons whilst slightly pumping the levers, not all the way, just a bit, sometimes their MTB stuff doesn't seem to allow the fluid fully back into the lever reservoir.
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• #7625
Forking SRAM, looks like one my new Paceline rotors have a slightly out of spec CenterLock interface... So it rocks back and forth on my almost new ($$$) DT240 front hub. Emailed SRAM dist (ZF) and expecting slow response, immediately purchased couple of new DA rotors (because symmetry) from r2bike. Trying with XTR rotors from the other bike there's minimal play (but it's there) so hope the interface on the hub isn't all messed up in the meantime, but I guess that would be very hard in under 500 miles.
I need to buy some new 160mm centrelock rotors. Don’t really care about 20g weight savings or looks, but ideally want some which are effective, quiet and don’t need bending back every ride.
I’m running Ultegra 8020. What’s the consensus on DA/Ultegra/XT/XTR/Swissstop?