Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I don't want to wait a month for delivery

it is never a month, generally 2 weeks

Fine, but I also need the 90 deg connector for the other end

Does anyone know anything about adaptors? Trying to see if I can mount post mount TRP's on flat mount frame - any downside to this? Are adaptors universal or do I need to use a TRP one?

I think the adapters are universal, as in you don't have to use a trp branded one.
You do need to choose one based on the rotor size you want to use, 140mm or 160mm.

The clarks ones are probably cheapest.

The only downside is that post mount calipers on flat mount frames can look a bit ugly due to the adapter making them stick out a bit.

On some frames the shape of the seat stay/chain stay junction might not allow an adapter to fit if its a small size frame

Thanks! Yeah I'm not wild about them sticking out - seems the world is sold out of spyres at the moment so trying to figure a work around.

Deere vs slx - current generation what does the hive mind think? M6120 vs M7120

M6120 vs M7120

M6120 for sure. If you want to spend more and have your bike be about 5 grams lighter then go for slx.

My pal has the M6120's and they are pretty potent for the money.

I'm doing a frameset swap and will be moving my RX4s on SRAM Force AXS. Internal routing on both frames and fork of course FFS.

I'm sure the front hose length will be fine and I'm 50/50 on the rear. Assuming I don't need a new hose, is there anything I will need or should it just be plug and play (plus bleed)? Remove the hose from caliper or brifter end?

Depends on how big the holes in your frame for internal routing are. You won’t be able to get the compression nuts off the hose without cutting the olive off. So if you can get the 8mm nuts through the frame then you’re golden, otherwise you haveto cut the hose and fit a new olive . Sram barbs thread out so you can normally re-use them.

Brifter or caliper, whatever it's easier to route. Don't really need anything but plug the hoses or drain the dot fluid out before you start fiddling to avoid horrible corrosive stuff everywhere.

Brifter is easier as the levers have a connectamajig so won’t lose fluid and you can normally get away without bleeding.

Bit tricky thread a connectamajig through internal ports isn't it?

It is.

I just pull out from caliper end, did it a couple of times and just push/pull from levers only once I swap it to remove airs

The connnectamajig is in the lever with AXS. The hose just has a normal compression fitting. Some frames have big enough ports with rubber bungs which mean you can leave the compression nut on and pull the hose all the way through.

Or you can remove the olive and take the nut off, much easier.

That's what I said in my first response, but it will necessitate a new olive.

thanks all, I'll order a couple of new olives as back up

*Hope olives

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Please excuse my ignorance, but I want to buy a spare set of pads for these GRX callipers. What’s recommended?
Also, metal or resin?

Cheers

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metal or resin

Stoking division on lufguss are we?

Resin is suitable for most riding, quieter too. J03A are what you have, I think, but you can get pads without the cooling fins for cheaper.

Really hard to find any of those shape pads at the moment, so whatever you can find really. I can send you some that look exactly like the ones my mate's shop stocks, down to the same codes on the pads and zipties (can't remember brand, nothing fancy) but no vouching for quality asI ordered them from Ali express as every single one of our distributors are out of stock for months, and some pads are better than no pads.

Stoking division on lufguss are we?

Ha, not deliberately. Didn’t realise it was contentious.

Thanks for the info

I appreciate the offer. It’s not urgent though, there’s still life left in the current set, I just wanted spares in the parts bin.