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I may be pointing the obvious here but when I do a SRAM derailleur I normally go in the second largest cog and do the b screw in enough the pulley don't overlap with the largest, otherwise you get that crunch as the pulley moves the chain against the big cog going up. Not sag or anything, just hanging on the stand.
Netakure-
Yes I tried just about every combination of B-gap settings. I used the axs specific purple tool while under sag and the method you've described which is similar to how sram suggest setting it with out the tool.
"Chain Gap Adjustment without Gauge
Shift the chain into the 2nd largest cassette cog. The gap between the tallest teeth of the largest cassette cog and the upper pulley must be 5 mm"But no matter what, I couldn't get it shifting the way I expected it to. I bought the park derailleur hanger tool to rule out a bent hanger and found that it was straight.
TotalShanner
Shimano chain and cassette.
I'd read that chain retention would likely be compromised if I kept the eagle chain ring. Abandoning the four hundred quid xx1 chainset on a whim seemed daft. Finding a reasonably priced chainring that used the Sram direct mount but with the Shimano hg12 tooth profile took a bit of googling. Theres a wolftooth ring that ticks the box. It was released for the EE Wings to run them on a 12 speed Shimano set up. Price is a bit steep though, £100.
Option i went with is this North Shore Billet one at £53. Sram direct mount with hg12 tooth profile.
There really aren't any detailed posts on the best set up. I read this article and it convinced me it was worth trying.
The first result was a bit shit but I've now aligned the centre of the pulley wheel with the centre of the 6th cog and it gives the best set up. No rasping in the smaller cogs but some slight noise in the 50t but I can live with that.
The b-gap adjustment I've just went with trial and error. The Bikemag article says: "When in the second to largest cog, the tip of the tooth on the guide jockey wheel of the SRAM AXS derailleur is 10 millimeters from the tip of the tallest tooth of the largest cog on the Shimano cassette."
But he doesn't mention if he done this with the suspension sagged or not. Sram say it should be set under sag and Shimano don't seem to say one way or another.
I've ended up with the top pulley wheel about 13mm away from the the tallest tooth on the largest cog. This is without the shock under sag.
So far it feels quite good, you can definitely shift up under power without the horrible crunch I was getting with the sram cassette.
I'll wait until I've been out a ride on Sunday before I pass final judgement but I don't see my self going back.
Tempted to get the gx axs mech for my other bike now.