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• #802
thanks - reading a bit more on the regs, it seems 300mm from a window would suffice, which is doable either in the current utility/toilet configuration, or in the kitchen.
would love to have an air source system, but yeah - not sure we can commit to that size of an up front cost with all the other bits we need (and/or want) to do.
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• #803
Nah im fully anti air source, its all fault economy imo. I do gas so i have not interest in them, I mean if i have to fit them I will as they are basically a reverse fridge with a flow and return. Be easier than fitting a boiler though.
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• #804
Yeah 300 is the standard can fit stuff closer, as manufacturers instructions over ride regs.
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• #805
I've had a bit of a look, yes.
I'm half considering one to replace my aging boiler but as I understand it the lower operating temperature means my house will be permanently freezing without major alterations elsewhere. I'm also a bit unsure of the performance in very cold spells. All a bit of a shame as I like the idea.
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• #806
It works and keeps the temp more at a constant temp but means you need to have blending values Probs underfloor heating or giant radiators to keep the temp at a decent range.
Gimme a boiler over that shite, they are pushing this trying for folk to get bought on but I’ll certainly not be getting one anytime soon.
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• #807
Just been quoted 9k for a bathroom inc. fittings but forgot to spec addition of extractor. We're up north. This is fucking ridiculous.
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• #808
I just got quoted £13k...
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• #809
Are those quotes that bad? How much should a bathroom cost?
(Please no bathroom trades read this before giving me quotes, thanks)
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• #810
You can easily get a bathroom for half that.
I feel mine cost about 8 and it wasn't bargain basement. -
• #811
Ouch.
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• #812
We were quoted 4 for work ~9 months ago and that seemed like a lot then (priced up at ~3 for suite, tiles and other fittings). We will need new floor, walls back to brick and replaster but it still seems bonkers. Only going half tiled, static shower screen, not moving toilet, no electrics other than extractor and I'll probably run wires for that anyway.
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• #813
I had 3 quotes all around 4.5k for full refit.
Prob bought 3-4 K worth of sink and taps. -
• #814
8 for something you're happy with works out at a palatable pps (price per shit/shower)* over the lifetime of the room. As with previous bathroom discussions, there's no upper limit but it's a shame there seems to be a lower one.
*assuming healthy digestion and hygiene routine
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• #815
Who wants to doodle on a floor plan and see what they can come up with as an afternoon diversion?
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• #816
Yeah go on then!
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• #817
Scaled illustrator ok? 1:10 lols. Lemme just tidy up the file then I'll send it over. n.b. garage location is accurate. The brief: make it not shit. Bonus points for a master w/en-suite, top marks for master + guest both with en-suite. nice to haves: garage > utility > house flow, boot room. Somewhere for a piano.
The current layout is absurd, but we live in it now so we're making do. I've got a sort of idea of where I want to take it, but keen to see what others come up with before I go see a pro next year some time.
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• #819
I paid about 4k In Manchester 9 years back, on a back to brick bathroom job, including changing the layout.
Bathroom costs on the refurb I'm currently doing come in at 9.5k . It's a pretty extensive scope of works. Lots of plumbing work (the room was previously a bedroom) , couple of custom elements, wet floor, and decent level of finish . So it's absolutely possible to come in well under 9k
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• #821
I may have asked this before, but have not got any more decisive in my thinking...
Does anyone have experience of breaking out a concrete floor and replacing it - either with more concrete and insulation under screed, or with raised timber floor?
I have a 1915-ish house, brick walls, raised timber ground floor, which would have originally stepped down into the little kitchen at the back onto presumably quarry tiles on blinding or whatever went under them. It's now level through from the hall to the kitchen, I haven't done any proper investigation but I assume at some point it's been filled in and concreted. It's bloody cold in winter and I suspect is contributing to damp issues.
Does anyone still have a step down kitchen - if so do you have air-bricks/vents from under the raised floor into the lower kitchen? Doesn't it smell damp / you get small beasties in the kitchen? I'm trying to work out how the hallway was supposed to ventilate originally. It doesn't make sense to be a dead corner, and in a terrace you can't go sideways.
I think my options are:
- Leave the floor, add a thin layer of insulation on top so you step up. Easiest to do, won't help with damp.
- Break out concrete, dig down a little and replace with new, plus insulation on top, assuming there is already a DPM down there, also not much help with the damp unless there's an obvious gap (eg lapping up to a DPC)
- Break out concrete, make new insulated raised timber floor, add underfloor vents to back wall.
I am also planning to insulate the rest of the ground floor (and some of the walls). Anyone done this? (Themselves or getting people in.)
- Leave the floor, add a thin layer of insulation on top so you step up. Easiest to do, won't help with damp.
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• #822
Break out concrete, lay DPC, insulation, then screed?
If your base floor isn’t great, then structural concrete instead of screed.
We took up our floor as part of the extension, and it ended up being concrete rather than screed, so took the builders ages to take it up, with the idea that we would insulate, wet underfloor heating and then screed.
The block and beam ended up being beam and polystyrene blocks, so needed to pour normal concrete on the underfloor heating pipes.
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• #823
I dont know what you've been quoted for but good stuff aint cheap now thats for sure.
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• #824
Does anyone still have a step down kitchen
Yes.
if so do you have air-bricks/vents from under the raised floor into the lower kitchen?
There's been a large gap there since we redid the living room floor. Will be putting a generous vent as kitchen is redone. Previously very damp in that corner, seems fine now.
Doesn't it smell damp / you get small beasties in the kitchen? I'm trying to work out how the hallway was supposed to ventilate originally. It doesn't make sense to be a dead corner, and in a terrace you can't go sideways.
It did while it was drying out initially but seems to have gone. You get the odd whiff of damp in the morning when it's been really wet out for a few days, but that could just as easily be from the poorly fitting cellar door (house is 1890s, no DPanything under floor or in cellar, just dirt and bad concreting). Kitchen itself is well ventilated, some days you can feel quite the breeze from under the step, very reassuring. We have a fair few spiders around an about the house, can't say there's more or less since we opened that up. No sign of anything else crawling about though.
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• #825
We don't mind paying for decent people, it's just annoying to have someone booked in for Feb, them bail, prices for everyone go up 2-3k over the last 6 months and everyone so busy they ghost after giving a quote.
I know materials are in short supply, lot of big jobs being pushed back making it hard to schedule, lads going on isolation etc. We've heard it all from the various people we've hard around. We jut want to get someone booked in before prices go up another 2k.
shhhh we need early adopters to invest to bring the prices down for the rest of us