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  • Any recommendations for a good, all purpose heat gun? At what price point to the diminishing returns start?

  • I have an einhell one which looks identical except in colour. It’s fine. The only reaon I can see necessary to go for a more expensive one is if you need precise temperature control.

  • I need to fill a hole, but need something stronger than polyfilla because I need to drill again right next to it. Short of buying a bag of cement, are there any other options?

  • Could fill it with an epoxy.

  • How big is the hole, how big are you drilling? Whats the purpose?

  • It's a 6mm, about 50mm deep hole. It's just a few mm to where it should be. I just want to make sure that when I drill the new hole the drill bit doesn't move to the softer filler (since the concrete is very hard).

  • @Airhead will probably have better tekkers, but I'd be tempted by epoxy like konstab said.

    This seems fairly expensive:
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-v-hybrid-mortar-resin-360ml/88507

    This is a bit cheaper:
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-ii-styrene-free-polyester-resin-300ml/32863

  • I would split a bit of hardwood, roughly shape it with a Stanley and bang it in with a hammer.

    Probably.

    Edit: what are you fixing to the wall?
    Another option would be to enlarge the hole and use a larger wooden plug - which was the Victorian approach.

  • I would try the same as absurdbird. Even pine might do it but there are a few considerations hence 'probably' also.

    A standard filler that handles deep filling and would be secure after a few days is Fibarex from Toupret.

  • Thanks everyone, that Fisher mortar was what I had in mind, although the hardwood hack sounds good tbh. As it happens I just spotted a van two doors down with all sort of concrete types written on the side panel. The builder was doing some work on the garages, he gave me a bit of concrete. Crisis averted.

    I'll be back with drill questions a bit later, to avoid being in that situations again...

  • ^many
    Think I'm slowly finding that lost sock.

    From the washing machine filter today:


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  • With much relief, the washing machine has come back to life after fitting a second hand PCB - thank god for eBay sellers breaking down washing machines and selling the bits. Saved £120 vs the price of a new PCB. Never been so happy to have a washing machine power up!

  • Toolstation are having a Milwaukee tool clearance that has some good bits and nice prices on batteries.

    If I hadn't just spunked on a new house I'd be all over 18v circular saws, SDS and multitool

  • Any recommendations for countersinking bits? The few I've tried seem to chew the wood up rather than cut a nice profile.

  • I like a five flute straight one, think mine came from from RS years ago. My workshop-mate swears by the cone-with-hole style.

  • My kitchen tap is dripping. I plan to change the valves but I need to take the thing apart to check how many splines are on mine. Only I can't get the damn thing apart. I've removed the grub screw from underneath but I can't get it to budge. Any ideas for pulling the handles off?


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  • Change the tap be less hassle and you'll have a new shiny tap.

  • A shiny tap is just some Viakal, Autosol and elbow grease away.

  • It's tempting but the pipes are all hidden behind the under sink cupboard back panel so there is quite a lot of disassembly etc

  • It isn't. It has been cleaned with some abrasive agent that has removed the finish.

  • Yeah it looks tarnished, that could present a problem trying to get a tap spanner up the back if thats the case although nothing is impossible.

  • Aside from replacement being a decent option and probably achievable since the rear panels are usually flimsy.

    They often come off with considerably more force than you want to apply without knowing for sure that you've undone anything that's holding them on. If you can identify them and find the plan and check that grub screw is the only thing holding them on and that's undone, you should be able to tap them and wrench them a bit to try and free them up.

    It can get worrying before it suddenly lets go.

  • There is a patch at the top of the stairs up to my house, where the render has blown and cracked, and rain and weeds got in.

    I've just pulled off the cement render that literally came away in my hands, and scraped away the worst of the wet loose sand underneath.

    What's the best way to sort this out, can I just sand it down and apply a breathable paint? I'm worried that getting it rendered again will just mean it falling off again in a few years. Plus it's shared with my neighbour who won't want to pay for anything, I imagine.


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  • These are the grill connectors at the back of my oven.

    Is this fixable (by a professional)?
    And is it safe to keep using the rest of the oven?

    Many thanks.


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Home DIY

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