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  • Right, I'm at my wit's end. A few weeks ago, my Di2 Hydro (R8050?) brakes had really long travel, as metioned above, but it got worse. Possibly caused by two train trips when the bikes were hung up for 3hrs by the front wheel.

    Rear has been a bit funny since I switched to a new bike in particular the lever not returning all the way back to the correct position after braking. To eliminate a kink in the hose, I replaced the hose, cleaned the caliper/pistons and tried to re bleed it. Oil will flow top to bottom, but I can't get it to flow from a syringe up to the shifter.
    It suddenly popped and oil flew out bleed cup, then filled normally. But as I proceeded with the bleed (gravity etc) the shifter wasn't getting firm. So I tried again and I can't get anything through the system with the syringe. If I pull the lever, it pushes oil out the caliper, so it goes one way.

    Is my very expensive and out of stock shifter F&*ked? Is there any way to try and flush out the lever to clear the blockage?

    Added a pic, the upper silver bar that I think connects to the master cyclinder doesn't go all the way to the right. It does on the other shifter.


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    • Screenshot 2021-07-02 at 15.48.09.jpg
  • but I can't get it to flow from a syringe up to the shifter.

    Have you tried with the lever pulled to the bar? with an elastic band or something

  • When oil blew out of the bleed cup, did you see it come out of the cup? It sounds like the over pressure valve.

    Just to check, are you doing the bleed as per Shimano’s instructions? It’s late and I might be mistaken but I thibk the procedure if: bleeding bottom-up until no more bubbles, remove bleed cup, seal shifter, pull brake lever all the way and hold to the bar, gently repressurise with syringe while slowly allowing brake lever to release, do not add excess pressure with the syringe it should move the lever all the way out and feel firm and that’s all, seal calliper, test.

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