Time Trial / Time Trialling / TT

Really? Like a big ziplock?

How much can it be compressed before the ziplock bit lets go though? I don't want to hose myself down with energy drink when I breath in.

I've pushed on them pretty hard. I ran one like that for the 100 I did, also used it like that in bikepacking bags.

The framebag one I've got definitely doesn't stay closed without the hard plastic bit but the Platypus one I tested might. It's more ziplock whereas the Hydrapak kinda folds over and is held shut like a roll-top bag.

Platypus big zip

Jordan rapp studied this I'll try and post a working link but you can find it at rappstar.com 1x friction files but narrow wide rings showed no loss of efficiency due to increased friction as the teeth are taller but narrower. Approx 4w aero saving at 30mph for standard round aero/solid 1xring but aerocoach "claim" 5-6w at the same speed due to increased efficiency from their not oval oval shape. Shame their QC is dog shit

I don't want oval rings so the Aerocoach rings are out but I do need slightly lower gearing for the 12hr so I want a 54, 55 or 56T and there's some on TTF but they're NW.

I don't want to use NW if they're worse but the fact that D2Z are making NW rings makes me think there must be something to it and if NW meant I could actually get rid of my FD without chain drops I'd be a happy camper.

What else would I need to change to use NW rings?

Thanks btw

https://rappstar.com/2020/11/29/1x-friction-profiles/

So now the question is, will NW stop me throwing chains during TTs?

Also, Pyramid or D2Z chainring?

Clutch rear mechs lose about 3 w though it appears. If your running a standard rear mech you'd probably need a front chain guide as i wouldn't trust a NW on its own to be enough security especially as most of our roads are fucked at the moment

That doesn't bode well then. I'd only bother changing to NW if I could remove the FD guide I've got and I'm not going to swap my RD (DA + CeramicSpeed jockeys).

The other forum 🤫 seems to rate pyramid but i think they're out of stock. Rotor do a 54 round as well which is only about £75 and fibre lyte will make you anything for £££
1x or 2x seem to be down to preference. Different but neither offering an advantage over the other. So DA ceramic rear mech big big ring on the double and mash away

I've run a NW ring on my commuter / winter bike for 3+ years and dropped my chain maybe three times. Non-clutch Campag Veloce mech. Run a NW on the HC bike and never dropped a chain, though it's in tension pretty much 100% of the time.

Yeah, I've got FibreLyte 57T on now and a BNIB 51T that someone doing long races should buy but I want slightly smaller gearing and was hoping to find it a bit cheaper.. then I saw the NW options...

I don't want oval rings so the Aerocoach rings are out

I don't get on with oval rings, but the Aerocoach ones are only very slightly ovalized, and I've never had an issue with them. Also never dropped a chain yet with my Aerocoach chainring, despite having no chain retention device and racing on some pretty appalling road surfaces.

Yeah, I run a CeramicSpeed jockey cage though which is very light tension and I'm it's when I'm in the 11, 12, 13 that I've thrown chains in races. 10s and 25 milers so maybe not as likely in a 12hr but I'm still trying to do 25mph so there's some faster bits where I'd be in the smaller cogs.

Maybe I should fit a 62T and then I'd never get anywhere near the 11T so there'd be no problem :)

At least in a 12hr a chain drop doesn't end your race but I still don't wanna be stopping for shit like that. I want that 300mi!

Don't think the aerocoach ones are narrow wide though are they?

I run a 60t stone chainring from aliexpress. Has been absolutely fine. No need for clutch mech on road bike.

I'm running a 58t chainring on the P5. Made for an eventful club 10 mile race a few weeks ago when, due to pinching a cable when reinstalling everything after tightening the headset, my bike decided (having behaved perfectly during the warm up) to auto-shift to 58x11 every time I went onto the extensions. It was the correct gear for about 2% of the race, and definitely not the right gear for the climb up to the finish.

Matt Botrill is/was using a 60t pyramid with a DA ceramic speed cage and span mostly the 15t on the rear but did use a chain keeper up front and he knows. Chain keepers don't work as well with oval rings for obvious reasons though

Yeah, I was running a 58T for these shorter events. In the 10 I had no chain catcher and the chain bounced off when I was in the smaller cogs. I installed one of those plastic Aerocoach chainguides and then still managed to do the same thing on the ski slope R25 course. 6hrs of driving to unship a chain during a 25... I ran out of swear combos.

I'm not sure it's worth ditching my FD to save 3W especially given the Breckland course lost me a bottle due to the bumps. That's definitely chain go bye bye territory. Damn it though, I want those watts!

I doubt I'll ever use oval rings so that's not the issue. Not having a chain come off vs. 3W over 12hr is the issue :)

Damn it though, I want those watts!

Singlespeed or fixed it is then. Frankly, either would probably work on the Breckland course. As you know, it ain't hilly.

You say that but I'm sure I remember grinding a horrid big big gear somewhere. Maybe it was just the transfer and I was fucked. I've never fallen in such a massive hole at the end of a race before. At 10hr mark I was 50W down on target power. Proper massive collapse. The last 20min, when I thought I could at least get a PB/club rec, power was back up, only 10W off target.
If the weather's better and I can improve my fueling maybe I can do 300mi with no changes. Maybe.

I think I might dremel some more metal off that front derailler...

3 watts should be 2-2.5 minutes so how quickly can you hook a chain back on?