Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

What country are you in?

You could also try to find Token, SKF, nos Shimano on eBay or even Phil Wood if you're feeling flush...

+1 for Token, good seals and well made.

I tried my hand a rebuilding the lever and fit new bladders. Master cylinders were phish. Made them work again with generic o rings from the car shop. Put everything together, fasten banjo with torque wrench, and the fucker doesn't even tighten down hand tight. Looks like some asshole that "serviced" it before in the shop over-tightened it. Of course I can't prove that or anything, but no wonder it kept seeping. The threads came with it when I unscrewed it to check. This is the plastic body of the lever that the banjo screws into.

Very upset now. Any thoughts on how to recover that instead of throwing out the whole lever?

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Is there a direct mount chainring with the right offset / other solution out there that will allow me to fit a Shimano M7100 Boost crank on a 135mm Non-Boost frame, running 10-speed Saint RD, with a workable chainline?

If I understand correctly this Garbaruk chainring with'CUSTOM offset' variable chainline (34-36T) and offset 5.9mm would bring it close enough inboard.. except its 12 spd HG+ only so wouldn't fit a 10spd chain!

https://www.garbaruk.com/shimano-xtr-m9100-round-custom-offset.html?category=1

Why wouldn't the chain work?

I wondered whether it would be fine too?

The product page specifies 12 speed only and I know Wolf Tooth, for example, have 12spd Hyperglide+ and 9/10/11 specific respective teeth profiles.

I imagined this must be because 12spd chains are narrower and so retention would be an issue with wider chains? Happy to be told otherwise?!

Garbaruk and Wolf Tooth both offer 9/10/11 specific chainrings but with 3mm Boost offset (52mm chainline) only.

Assuming I can use a 10spd chain on the 12spd specific tooth profile... Am I right in understanding that the above Garbaruk 'Custom offset' chainring with 5.9mm offset will give me around a 49.1mm chainline... which is 0.1mm off the optimal non-Boost 1x chainline of 49mm?

Fuck knows on all the numbers, I've been drinking, but I can't see the chain being a problem, pretty sure the inner width is the same.

I'd glue that thread and see how it goes.

I have a pump (Bontranger air shot type thing) with a head that does Schrader and presta valves without an adapter

I also have a bike with dunlop / woods type valves. why? I have no idea. Apparently used on cargo bikes for reasons I cannot fathom.

What's the easiest way to get the pump to interface with the dunlop / woods valves?

Does the presta part of your existing pump not work?

I haven’t got it to work, no. Should it just be a case of forcing it on?

I bought some wheels once that had Dunlop valves on them. My Joe blow worked fine on the presta side to inflate them.

Pretty sure Woods and presta are the same diameter. In my very limited experience with Woods valves, I've never had a problem getting a presta pump to fit.

Presta end should work, but there's not a lot of room to push it down so some pump heads can be a bit loose, you can whack a presta to Schrader converter on and then use Schrader bit, or even better, throw away the woods tubes.

Hey guys, this issue is bogging my mind and I can't seem to fix it. There's a 7-speed RX100 hub, with its original cassette on the freehub. The locking is tightened maximally, but there's play on the cassette. The smallest cog casuses the issue somehow, the rest of the cassette doesn't even touch that one. So it's fully up in place, but there's just too much room on the freehub body and there's like 2 mm of play at least. Once again, this is a stock hub and its stock cassette. The small spacer between the 5th and 6th cog is present, so it should be perfect, but in reality it's not. I tried 2 different 11T cogs from random other cassettes I could find, and the issue is still the same. Does anyone have a clue how to proceed? Thanks!

Tried and failed. That's the whole thing for the bin. Lack of available parts and eye watering prices mean I'll move to Rival22 with cable discs to get this bike moving again.

Might not help but isn't there also usually a small spacer between the 6/7 speed? it wont be 2mm wide but other than that I'm not sure what else to say other than stick a spacer behind the whole cassette.
Have you checked the hub is not the 8 speed version too?

Ta

Pic?

1) Double check the smallest cog is fit correctly against the second smallest. It’s easy to overlook sometimes.

2) Does the spacing between each cog look even? If not, where?

3) Is there play in the freehub by itself?

If the alternative is to bin it, maybe epoxy or super putty the banjo in?

Or a helicoil for whatever size you need? https://www.accu.co.uk/en/self-tapping-inserts/611377-HSTI-M3-A1?uk_google_shopping=1&c=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5uWGBhCTARIsAL70sLKpYAHsdVTMtdZlMTBRCkVJxnQsbPFphUG5AGoBpeaZjZBHFQSQg5AaAs3MEALw_wcB

Decision's made. Done with it.

I don't think there is, it's built into the small cog basically, as it's quite wide. Hub is definitely 7 speed, whole thing is factory stock.

Will snag a pic or maybe a video when I get home. The freehub is rock solid, the casette is "loose" on it.

I might have overexaggerated with the 2mm, it's closer to 1 I guess.
https://youtu.be/3nEuOqoFDxQ