Home DIY

+1 to laser level. You are welcome to borrow mine, but it was only £20 from Lidl should you wish to expand your tool library. Seems accurate enough, and comes with a clamp to allow you to clamp it to pretty much anything.

I did similar with these hooks in my old flat, but I used those little rosewood 'tug bars' you get on bass guitars.

You only need a little bit under one of the wheels on each bike, and it won't be taking any weight, just stabilising the balance. Just screw it into the plasterboard.

Concrete typically has more water than it needs for the reaction, to aid placement.
The ground you are laying the concrete onto will act as a heat sink.
Thick slab with vibrating pole, or just relying upon gravity and tamping.
You might find a bit more time spent ensuring the upper surface is well tamped will reduce the likelihood of unwanted cracking.

Cheers. Was going to get advice from the driver as well, they are pretty helpful normally. I was thinking of spraying the area down before I pour, to make sure the underlying ground doesn't suck the water straight out of the concrete?

4 inch slab?
No dimension greater than 6m?
A damp (no ponding) surface will do little harm.
Is the slab for use with your heavy farm machinery, or lighter use?

Yep, between 4 and 6 inch slab. 4m x 4.5m. just holding a paddling pool, so no heavy machinery on this one, and no big single point weight either.

on a sub base which is about 2 foot deep cobbles, so rock solid!

You're worried about not lining the trim up but you can live with the electrical socket!

You could cut it into sections and line them up then fill/sand and paint them. If you can find the studs you could use a piece of wood to hold the trim onto the wall. Tiny plugs and screws countersunk. Grip fix with gaffer or masking tape works sometimes. The gaffer tape will likely take the paint off though.

I can't do anything about the socket (myself) and I'm not willing to get into what it would take to move it at the moment.

The wall is solid blockwork that's been plastered. I could drill through the trim, and put plugs in the wall, however I was hoping to be lazier than that.

What laser levels are people using?

I would presume that those cobbles don't hold much heat overnight.
A bit more attention where the slab is 6inches thick,
and,
you should probably be OK.

A dirt cheap Chinese one. It's been great. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DLX4SDT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this one not currently available, but I'm sure similar things can be found)

@Dammit

I've got this one (currently available with a 15% discount...).

Also purchased this to make it easier to use.

I've got a similarly cheap one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QXSGNYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it's been used loads over the last 6 months of DIY.

Added one of these Bessey clamps to make it easier to clamp to doors etc: https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Bessey-Ste-Lh-4008158041469-Laser-Holder-Support-Bar-Bracket

Leica obvs. So should any gentleman :)

Added one of these Bessey clamps to make it easier to clamp to doors etc: https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Bessey­-Ste-Lh-4008158041469-Laser-Holder-Suppo­rt-Bar-Bracket

That definitely seems more useful than the pole I have - should have done my research :)

i stuck some coffee stirring sticks together, stuck them to the wall, then painted the same colour as the wall. It's doesn't need to take the weight, just stop the bike from swinging.

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The older version of this, survives being in the toolbox, cheap and a reliable brand. Can be had for less if you can be bothered to shop around.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-cubix-stht77498-1-red-self-levelling-cross-line-laser-level/256FG

Well it’s down, but probably not perfect, but it is going to be covered in rubber matting anyway. Going to mist spray it every couple of hours this afternoon on the advice of the driver.

@mespilus thanks for the tips

All in the spirit of the Forum.
When tamping did you see the texture of the wet concrete change,
as the larger aggregates 'sank',
and a sand/gravel/cement-rich slurry 'appeared' on the surface?
Working this layer should give you the non-cracking surface you require.

Any surface texture to give a bit of grip?

yep, well tamped, went over in 4 times, in 90 degree directions.

Have purposefully not floated the top so that it still has a bit of a rough surface.

Bathroom renovation time. Am I silly to try and fit a bath and separate shower in?

Unsure if just having a shower would be a terrible choice. Given that I do enjoy a bath (during winter) and not sure if it would impact the resale price at some point.

Or am I just trying to squeeze everything in?

My parents have both in there main bathroom and it’s not massive and it’s better than a bath with a shower imo too

Nobody will hate you for squeezing in a just-usable shower + a normal sized bath with a retractable shower head in it.

Unless it means putting the towel rail just by the toilet. Hmmm.

That's the thing. North facing room too so I'd like to get the radiator on one of the external walls to help with it getting quite wet in there.

not sure if it would impact the resale price at some point.

Is it likely to be bought by a family?

A bath is a must for children.

Would it be foolish to cut (with manual saw) a “floating” shelf to make it fit between chimney breast and wall? Have a feeling they’re like weetabix inside, so this could be a spectacular way to waste £18. Cut edge(s) will be hidden.

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I have done this. I can't remember whether I kept and took apart the sawn off bit or got another bit of timber to fit but I definitely re-strengthened the cut edge.