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Yes this is the kind of thing that I was wondering about. It's a bit awkward because the thread is knackered only on one side of the outer end, so the area that needs fixing/gap filling is a sort of rounded wedge. Also, I have wound the pedal in from the back, but the axle doesn't reach all the way through to the outer face, which is the questionable bit. In the above method is it possible to let the JB weld semi-harden, "tap" it with the pedal and then remove the pedal again to allow it to fully harden?
ffm-
Got any look pedals, the ones I've seen tend to have a lot of thread.
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In the above method is it possible to let the JB weld semi-harden, "tap" it with the pedal and then remove the pedal again to allow it to fully harden?
Not really, no. If it's not set the threads won't be strong enough to last. If it is set, you ain't never getting that pedal off again. There may be a Goldilocks point in between the two, but I wouldn't want to find out what it is. I don't own enough cranks or pedals.
snottyotter
Brommers
It's a bodgy old hack, but I've seen this work before:
JB Weld is amazing stuff. Part of the engine block on my old race car was held together using it, after I cracked it overtightening a tapered oil pressure sender fitting. If you don't add enough grease to the pedal threads, and the JB Weld bonds the pedal to the crank, it's never coming out again without copious amounts of drilling.
The other option is to build up the damaged thread with JB Weld or (if you have an AC TIG welder) with weld, and then retap it from the back, but that requires a 9/16" tap. And possibly an AC TIG welder.