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  • You're welcome to borrow my belt sander

    I think this is a good solution.
    I don’t know if a hand saw will get any closer than a circular.
    I’d be tempted if I were short on tools to make cross cuts with a tenon saw to as close as possible to the frame then knock off with a chisel- keeping an eye out for the grain wanting to take your hewing past the cuts (if that makes sense?) then finish with the belter.

    IME (v painful) cycling with a big belt sander and other hand tools in a shoulder bag is a BAD IDEA. Especially if you need to stop suddenly.
    But I guess all the kids have proper racks and ting nowadays.

  • I think this is a good solution.

    Even at a not very course grit (relatively speaking) I am always surprised at how fast it will remove wood. So I think the closeness of the cut would be less important. You could do the whole thing with the belt, given enough belts, but it's usually better to cut a lump off than turn it to sawdust. "Nothing removes material faster than a saw", that sort of thing, was my thinking.

    I wondered about the perpendicular cuts then knock out (like tenons/lap joints, right?), but then I wonder how much run through you'd get with the saw given the concrete sill being in the way.

    What about stitch drilling a line of vertical holes through the wooden sill close to the wall, would mean for less material to then cut through with the saw. And then belt sand to smooth out the half holes left by cutting off.

  • "Nothing removes material faster than a saw"

    An axe? 🤪

    Personally I would start knocking the wood off with a wide chisel watching carefully which way the grain wants to break off, making cross chop cuts (like cutting a hinge mortise or whatever) but this does require a 50mm v sharp chisel.

    What about stitch drilling a line of vertical holes

    Definitely an option - a solution from the pre multi tool days

    The mortar under the wooden cill can probably be raked out and replaced to get a good weather seal.

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