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You're welcome to borrow my belt sander
I think this is a good solution.
I don’t know if a hand saw will get any closer than a circular.
I’d be tempted if I were short on tools to make cross cuts with a tenon saw to as close as possible to the frame then knock off with a chisel- keeping an eye out for the grain wanting to take your hewing past the cuts (if that makes sense?) then finish with the belter.IME (v painful) cycling with a big belt sander and other hand tools in a shoulder bag is a BAD IDEA. Especially if you need to stop suddenly.
But I guess all the kids have proper racks and ting nowadays.
absurdbird-
I think this is a good solution.
Even at a not very course grit (relatively speaking) I am always surprised at how fast it will remove wood. So I think the closeness of the cut would be less important. You could do the whole thing with the belt, given enough belts, but it's usually better to cut a lump off than turn it to sawdust. "Nothing removes material faster than a saw", that sort of thing, was my thinking.
I wondered about the perpendicular cuts then knock out (like tenons/lap joints, right?), but then I wonder how much run through you'd get with the saw given the concrete sill being in the way.
What about stitch drilling a line of vertical holes through the wooden sill close to the wall, would mean for less material to then cut through with the saw. And then belt sand to smooth out the half holes left by cutting off.
stevo_com
@hugo7 for the wooden sill, I (as a rank amateur) would go for some kind of hand saw (whatever you have, or a cheap flush cut) and get in as close as you can. Then a belt sander to flatten it off/bring it in closer and finish with hand sanding using a block as @Airhead says. Will take a while, but it's currently the weather for it.
You're welcome to borrow my belt sander if you're willing to make the trip down here again. I've moved, but only a mile away from where you grabbed the timber.
"grabbed the timber" fnar