Home DIY

what happens under the existing cill,

Good point. Thanks.

What type of plane would be best?

Also is an oscillating saw the same as a multitool? I've always wanted a multitool and could possibly use this as the excuse. Annoyingly the bare Makita one is on sale at SF and I have Dewalt batteries. The Dewalt is x2 the price.

Needs another windowsill.

You jest, but essentially that was my first thought. Albeit covering both.

Paint one of the two sills green, or some other dark colour.

It was all green originally, and I'm aiming for the wood to be black, so that could be an easy interim solution.

Before I try eBay (will also put an advert in classified) anybody interested in Jet JPT260 Planer/Thicknesser or Jet 14" bandsaw, both been owned by me from new with light hobby use and only selling due to upgrades.
Can be shipped by one of the pallet companies and would cost approx £70 each

Let me know if anybody is interested

2 Attachments

What's the damage (££) on the bandsaw? I'm somewhere in the middle of a house move but interested in something bigger than my Inca

thinking about £550, will come with 10 spare blades (mostly used)

would remove that with an oscillating saw (fein etc.) or a normal saw even and then plane it flat. The closer you get to flat the less planing but if your plane is sharp and you know what you're doing it would be pretty easy.

My only concern would be what happens under the existing cill, how well it is sealed to the original and can you create a neat waterproof join there.

this.

you can even get at most of it with a good chisel and a hammer as long as you mind the grain and take care to not let the grain bite and crack too deeply. finish with a plane.

Yes, that’s a multi tool. Just a basic saw would do it though. Personally I would use one of my cheap single handed planes like the Stanley 102 block plane. Just to save damaging anything too expensive.

That would probably work but as you say it would take care with the grain.

That's a great price but it's a bit beyond my discretionary spend till my house purchase is complete.

good luck with your sale.

plane

I've only got a couple of vintage apprentice made wooden ones we taped up and used as doorstops before children stopped us having nice things.

I think my dad has a couple though.

One of my wooden ones is long though maybe a ft or so. And I wondered if something like that would be easier to keep straight.

Rivet guns - is there much to know? Just need one for some DIY jobs.

For pop rivets? How many are you doing? For small numbers, anything should be fine. For lots, beg, borrow or steal a compressor and get a pneumatic one. Doing 500+ pop rivets in a day with a manual tool might be good for the soul, but it's not good for having enough grip at the end of the day to unlock your front door.

Anyway the sill is on hold as my OH has mandated me to put up trellis without worrying about the time/helping with kids.

So does anyone have any useful tips or things I should know before I start about trellis?

For example:

1 Attachment

Very similar project in fact - replacing loose rivets on the pram.

Opted for a cheap machine mart special in the end. Seems to do the job. The pram is still an ongoing ballache and we haven’t even had the kid yet.

What's it mounted on? If it's between posts then it's useful to have a couple of clamps with heads small enough to go through the gaps in the trellis. Then you can line them up more easily. You nearly always have to shorten one trellis panel, it's easy enough, you just pull the staples out and then staple once you've cut it.

If you are mounting posts on top of a wall use 10mm threaded rod epoxied into the post and wall with an electrical grommet to separate the base of the post from the top of the wall. Then you can bend the rod to align the posts as you go along.

Just try what you have to see what works best. I've been using planes for a long long time and done a lot of planing. Sometimes I'll plane a bit of wood for fun! You have to read the grain and judge how to set the plane and a lot of that is based on experience.

You could cut it with a hand saw and sand it with a block of wood wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper, finishing with 120/180 grit.

This is really helpful given it was such an open question!

I'll try and get some pics up. But there are effectively 3 "sections" or areas.

1. Low wall with brick "pillars" where small trellis will sit on top and in between the pillars.
   
2. Three panels of tall oblong trellis to hide and visually break up a neighbours fence panels. This will be attached to a taller ~150cm wall and go above the height.
   
3. A 90cm (probably) trellis that will straddle the top ¼ of a ~2m wall in an alleyway.
   
   
   

It's going to be tricky to make it all look cohesive. But the alley gets a real wind whipping down it when we get wind, so it has to be fixed really well. Plus you can't really see the alley that well from outside, so there's a bit of scope.

Any thoughts on the cheapest functional SDS?

Deciding on renting vs buying.

Feels like a toss up between
PERFORMANCE POWER PRH850C 4KG ELECTRIC SDS PLUS DRILL 220-240V
https://www.screwfix.com/p/performance-power-prh850c-4kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-220-240v/426fx#product_additional_details_container
For £50

And
TITAN TTB653SDS 5.9KG ELECTRIC SDS PLUS DRILL 230-240V
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h
For £60

My mate just bought the Titan and we’ve been using it to demolish a lean-to. We’ve both been impressed with it for the price, doesnt seem to miss a beat, and it came recommended by a tradesman he’d had in who claims to use them all day every day for a few years then replaces after the motor goes. Should be fine for DIYer

Nothing wrong with cheap drills, either of those would be fine for DIY.
The choice depends on what you’re going to be using it for.
If you’re mostly putting in plugs/fixings a 2kg drill is what you need, the extra weight of the ‘breaker’ rotary drill will be a total pain.
If you need to cut channels or do some heavier demolition get the bigger one.

Check that whichever drill you get has 3 functions; drill, hammer drill, hammer.

That's a good point.

So maybe the
MAC ALLISTER MSRH600 2.6KG ELECTRIC SDS PLUS DRILL 220-240V

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msrh600-2-6kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-220-240v/994fy

For £50

Would be a better shout.

I'm buying it because I don't want to use my combi to drill loads of holes in a brick wall, and for the 6-9 holes I need to drill down through the concrete top caps - which I know otherwise will take ages.

My guess is 90% of future use will be drilling through things I don't want /can't use my combi for.

I guess a 2kg one will still do a bit of chasing if needed right?

Cheers.

I guess a 2kg one will still do a bit of chasing if needed right?

Absolutely.
I use my (Metabo) 2kg for all kinds of shit, stripping tile, chasing pipes and cables. Core drilling etc. Wayyyy beyond its capacity.
I have a Chuck adapter (indispensable) to use straight bits and an SDS arbor for holesaws etc.
That drill is a total workhorse.