Home DIY

Strong work.
👏

What are you considering for the sound proofing?
It’s a dark art, my friend just recently soundproofed his recording studio - which is in a building of small industrial units alongside cabinet workshops etc.
He did loads of research.

getting the tails to not leak very very slowly is a different matter

Were they leaking from where the brassware threads into the rads?
I’ve recently started using La-Co Slic Tite for that kind of situation (bought on the basis of their spelling and graphic design) its the bomb.

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I refitted tails back into the rad I've been refurbing with 10 wraps of tape. "Feels" like it shouldn't leak, but not put any water in it yet.

Anyone after a dehumidifer? https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/364494/

Thanks, very amateurish compared to your work but given the hard deadline plus doing stuff all new to me probably the most challenging DIY I've attempted so far.

Looking at M20 rubber panels + two layers of acoustic plasterboard - this basically:
https://www.soundstop.co.uk/soundproofing/soundproofing-walls/Sm20-wall-solution4.php

Our house/area is really really quiet but that's part of the issue - the first floor front bedroom will be our room for TV watching so we're more worried about noise from us than from our (very quiet, very considerate) neighbours. But loud conversations/sneezes can be heard through the first floor walls so we're thinking of this as future proofing.

When I ran the ethernet cables I discovered there's a step from the ground floor to first floor walls and the first floor rooms are effectively slightly wider, so I think it's perhaps double skin brick downstairs and single up, in which case God knows what's holding our loft extension up!

Were they leaking from where the brassware threads into the rads?

Yep, have been impressed by videos/reviews of Loctite 55 but if that doesn't work I'll pick up some Slic-tite!

"Feels" like it shouldn't leak

I think I did 12 wraps second go and had similar feels. They weren't even dripping, just damp slowly building up around the threads and I put the pressure up to 2 bar to test, so they might have sorted themselves out but I'd rather not risk it.

This video and a load of DIY forum threads convinced me...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QL2mZPysyo

Just tested the two ethernet cables that run under the floorboards and they're all good, phew...

My knowledge on soundproofing is limited.
I know the secret is decoupling (floating boards and panels on silicone or similar), increasing surface area (acoustic rockwool type stuff), and not leaving any gaps.

If you’re interested I’ll get product names from my mate.

Loctite 55

I had to google.
Yes, I’ve used this gear - still have a roll in my plumbing box but it’s lost it’s labels.
It is good stuff much more satisfactory than ptfe, as you have more of a feel that the joint is good and it’s harder to overtighten.

Yes please! We've used Soundstop before and were happy, and I trust their advice, but I've also found somewhere that sells the rubber panels cheaper than they do and am open to ideas.

As I understand it the rubber panels are heavy so have the mass and required properties needed to absorb noise. The plasterboard is then glued to the rubber which isolates it from the wall. You leave a 3mm gap around everything to decouple which you then fill with acoustic mastic. I'm also thinking about using a layer of green glue between the two layers of plasterboard but not 100% sure that will hold the plasterboard up, you need something which is going to hold heavy panels to the wall/rubber panels/plasterboard.

That sounds like a good system.
My friend probably was going for a more economic solution as he had an industrial unit to sound proof - also the amount of lost space wasn’t as much of an issue as it would be in a house.

Other mates of mine built a couple of screening rooms for the cinema film processing place in Soho. They literally built it out of silicone, crates and crates of the stuff - everything was floated on it.
I reckon the green glue is superior but it’s not £2 a tube.

..

Well this is a lot harder than they made it look in the instructions.

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Also shifting a first fix cordless nail gun if anyone wants: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/364510/

Completely fine, that’s what I do on the regular.

Some of the new tails that are getting manufactured are going too deep into the rads and that causes the leaks, not the amount of tape/loctite or other thread materials.

It’s the cheap stuff that’s causing the problems not the method of sealing it.

I’ve never had a problem with danfoss valves but the shite cheapo valves are pish.

Can I ask what you're using under the flooring panels/how did you prep the area?

I was trying with the internet recommended 5-7, but there was a sausage/hallway analogy going on.

That's underlay you can see. Under that it's self leveling then a concrete floor

I shot myself with mine today.

No damage, but lesson well and truly learned.

For sure - definitely don't drop them...

Hidden knots are pretty unpleasant too, particularly if you're not holding the gun that tight. I have bollocksed the abductor on my thumb.

May I offer a little advice? Vacuum between every join before fitting, they are engineered very well and in my, limited, experience any dust or foreign object makes join visible and never good at a 2nd attempt.

What about the join where he cuts the membrane in half on the other side of the upstand?

I’m using tilting velux in my roof (yeah I know they’re only meant to be used on >15deg pitch, but what the heck, I like living on the edge). I think what I’ll do is unroll the membrane across the roof without the windows fitted and mark the openings. Then roll back the membrane, fit the windows, glue, unroll, swear a lot and hope for the best.

Yeah I found that out pretty quickly! Thanks

Finished 3/4 alcoves today. Hoping the rest should go down a fair bit quicker tomorrow.

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Just seen an advert on the telly for Hippo 300 sealant, don't need any but felt the need to go and buy some just in case.....