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• #1677
Only just seen this but I should have something - let me know size required and I’ll check
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• #1678
That's that question answered! I think I'll get someone to sort them out for now and then get some oil stones and a honing guide and try to keep them sharp myself!
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• #1679
A cheaper diamond sharpening stone might work fine for diy use. Most of the cheap ones I've used have worn out over time.
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• #1680
Pm'd you.
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• #1681
I've decided to start selling some woodcarvings. Nothing for sale as yet, but have made a little site to sell from
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• #1682
I'm looking for some advice - I'm making a replacement lampshade, and I need two flat, round hoops.
I bought some 2.5mm wire and started making some hoops, but I'm now encountering the unsurprising issue of struggling to get it flat and round.
Does anyone have any hacks for doing something like this, or is it just going to be the tedious job of bend, check against template, bend back, swear, check again, etc?
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• #1683
Hello woodworkers I got given 2 chairs that I'd like to strip back and make nice atm they have shitty paint all over them. Once I get the chairs back to raw wood what's best for protection? I prefer a natural simple finish.
They will be used on a small balcony but not left out in rain if that helps. -
• #1684
I would use a renewable oil finish, something that can be wiped on as that could be touched up over time. Different situation but I used a Varathane finish for our kitchen table that I regret because of the way it chips as it wears.
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• #1685
Yeah would rather not have a clear coat type finish that can chip etc. Thanks will look at it. Been looking online and so much advice some of it conflicting....Oil is bad/oil is the only way. Wax won't work. Looking forward to a little project the chairs are v simple nothing special.
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• #1686
Oil then wax, best of both worlds. What kind of wood are they?
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• #1687
I don't know. Once I get the paint off I'll post up some pictures as I don't have the knowledge to tell what type of wood.
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• #1688
Here they are atm.
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• #1689
Osmo polyx satin / matte. Super easy to apply, durable and nice natural oil type finish. Can be patch repaired and won’t flake or peel.
Must be a labour of love, I wouldn’t want to strip the paint off em!
Or anything to be fair. I admire the project and a reduce-reuse-recycle mentality.
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• #1690
They were going to the tip otherwise and I think they are quite nice under that paint,well I hope they are nice under the paint.
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• #1691
Second for Osmo... quick and easy to apply. You can get one with UV protection too... spendy, but a pot goes miles!
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• #1692
I’ll take a wild guess at beech. Looking forward to seeing the paint come off. +3 for Osmo. I finished a box project recently and used 2 coats of Polyx over four applications of quick drying tung oil.
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• #1693
What are you planning to do to strip the paint?
I've had good succes with a brown/crystal soap - not sure about the english name for it, but is a thick gel-like substances with a high pH. Smear it on thick and wrap it in cling film. Works just like chemical paint stripper. -
• #1694
bit more making. it's been a while
a couple of fun pieces, firstly a shoe brush holder. I couldnt find anything sharp to cut the front flap, so had to hack at it a bit.
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• #1695
then an overly elaborate shoe polish tin holder. if you look closely you can see the velvet lined bottom. fancy!
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• #1696
When I finally get my dream job in a 1950s bank, they will come in very handy.
signed, your fan. xx -
• #1697
a bit more making:
wooden egg, just because, and a sand/shot bag for metal forming
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• #1698
Nicely juxtaposed with all the electronic gubbins.
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• #1699
yeah, no idea what all that gubbins does
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• #1700
That egg is great. It's about 30cm tall?
If you're going to do it yourself the end game is expensive. I've probably got £600-£1k invested in sharpening equipment but every one of my planes and chisels is properly sharpened almost all the time. I can't imagine having all the sharpening kit to do 6 chisels but the sharpening collection grows with the number of tools that need it.
I used to use a sandstone and I managed to do ok with that. I would be horrified now but I still have some of the tools I was sharpening like that. Then get something to set the angle of the bevel. There are cheap ones and expensive. A good quality diamond stone in 2 grits is a good next step, quality varies with price, £120 is a lifetime one. Then there's the little Tormek and if you are at it all the time the big Tormek. Not sharp enough? look at the scary sharp system at workshop heaven.