Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

On Hilary Stone Website that he will chamfer a BB shell for Mavic for £12.i guess you need to live somewhere near though...

Ah, ta, will check that

Replacing the sprocket on an IGH is straightforward, although things can ping off around the workshop. It can be done at home as long as you have basic tools and follow some instructions. As long as the cable outer is long enough to still reach the first cable stop on the frame and not be put under tension when the bars are turned all the way to the left and right, then changing bars is not an issue.

Thanks so much for the reply @ffm. I've ordered a 21T sprocket to replace the 16T. I took a look at the rear dropout and don't see a whole lot more latitude for moving the wheel forward to accomodate the larger sprocket - so perhaps a new chain will be needed?

Here's a better image of the bike - https://hfc.azureedge.net/media/products/pics_and_docs/avenue/2021/901203250-1.jpg

If you clamp something like molegrips/a cable tie/ a clothes peg on the axle it stops the spring retaining ring pinging off around the workshop when you remove it.

Any recommendations for a chain wear tool for 11sp chains please? I have one of the bog standard (0.75 and 1 indicators) - been googling and need to change 11 speed as it approaches 0.5. I thought my mtb chain was super new (and I still think it was) but was applying lube to a wet chain which then didn't stay on which I think has accelerated the wear. It is showing 1+ and I have brand new chainring on so that is getting changed this week

Quick question (I suspect that I know the answer deep down).

Is this chain too short?

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If it's not bursting in to flames you're probably fine, don't use that gear anyway.

From gears to brakes... This block that retains the brake cable in the lever. The ends are loose and kind of pop off. Is that right? Is it fixable, or am I better off binning it off?
It's an old 6600 (?) Ultegra

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They shouldn't 'pop off' but it is removable and should move a little freely.

Impossible to know without seeing it at small/small. Looks like a big cassette, may just be pushing the limits of the derailleur capacity.

It split into 5 parts. The main hook section, two washer/spacers and washers with a flange. I think I initially put them back together the wrong way in that picture. Have swapped the flanged/shouldered washers round. Think I've cracked it now.
What's the worst that could happen...

Nothing's on fire yet...
Yeah, was using big-big to illustrate the derailleur at maximum stretch.

It is. Apparently it will do a 34 tooth at the rear with the derailleur. Feels like there's a bit of drag and some noise from the chain, which I figured was because it was too short. And the rear derailleur is pretty stretched out there.

In that gear going big to big, does the derailleur cage have any more travel left? Like if you push from underneath will the cage rotate upwards a little more? If so I wouldn't worry about chain length.

As for the brake cable barrel... Does it pop out of place (upwards) when you push the brake lever? This may well be fixed by changing the cable, because an old/dirty cable can develop such friction that when you squeeze the brake lever the cable barely moves and the barrel has nowhere to go so it just jumps out of its slot.

Proper chain length in most cases is the shortest you can make it in big/big plus a one pair of links, yours looks like it might be a touch shorter than that but it's not so short that going big/big is pulling the mech apart and as you already know not to use that gear, and it won't explode if you do it accidentally, I wouldn't worry about it and double check it's correct when you get your next chain.

I was watching yesterday's giro and Formolo was going up the last climb in big-big. Of course the angle of the derailleur was a lot less extreme. Always wondered if using the two biggest cogs with the chain at an stupid angle is faster than using the small ring with the chain straight, pro cyclists seem to do it all time.

Yes they’re backwards in the pic so you should be sorted now.

Guessing if he doesn't need another gear past that it'll be easier than shifting at the front then back again once he gets to the top, he probably knows what he's doing. Racing is a bit different than normal use and things like excessive wear don't really matter.

If a frame is T47 86.5mm shell, can it take MTB crank or is that the 'road' width/chainline?

I guess what I am confused by is the availability of inboard and outboard T47 BBs.

I have a Genesis Croix De Fer touring fork, front ended in a collision with an inept motorist.

No cracks, but the wheel sits in the dropouts one or two degrees off square.

If you have the equipment / experience and think you can fix for less than the cost of a new fork, AND you're south / central london based, lemme know.

Also interested in advice on DIY solutions. I have some basic tools but not sure where to start with this.
cheers

Mate dropped over a bike to put together and have reached a headset snag

The top cartridge is sitting on top of the cup and not sliding in. It's a second hand frame, presume the previous owner just lived with it or got a new cartridge at sale but it makes turning the streerer stiff and leaves a small gap.

It look like an M-part elite upper headset.
I'm assuming it is the right model of cartridge (41x5.6x45 degree).

Anyone know if it needs to be pressed into the cup?
That's not how most of my other headsets work where they just slide in.

Doesn't look right to me. It's probably not the right bearing. You might need a 36° angle one or a thinner bearing.

Doesn't look right to me. It's probably not the right bearing. You might need a 36° angle one or a thinner bearing.

Thanks, suspect this is the most likely cause. Can't find any spec sheets - may see what cartridges are in my bikes to try.

edit: the cartridge is certainly correct for the top cover (M-Part)... it appears someone has tried to stick half an M-Part headset on top of another non-matching cup. Brilliant.

Is it ok to build a disc brake wheel with a rim brake carbon rim?