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• #3677
I had exactly the same issue with an ITM 400 racing stem on some dead piegas though I also had a struggle with that stem on a bontrager flat bar with barely a 3deg rise so I assumed it was bars, not the stem
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• #3678
Is 26. Needs a bit if tlc too... (bolts a bit rusty)
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• #3679
Can you not slide a coin in the split, and then tighten the bolt against the coin to spread the opening a bit?
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• #3680
Nice colourways.
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• #3681
Thanks.
And thanks all for stem suggestions. It does indeed need to be 26.
I've got nitto m109a bars. I'm also finding that I can't get the bars low enough with a compact drop so may have to switch to a more classic drop like the deda speciale I have on my CM 653.
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• #3683
That should go, I've fitted worse on piegas, but you may have to pry it open with a flat head screwdriver a little as you try and work it round the bend. It will not be easy and it will scratch/scrape the bars, but it should go with a lot of wiggling and swearing.
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• #3684
Aye will PM if no response...
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• #3685
Just had the same problem yesterday with some Piega bars. Solution- soap and water on the bars, spread the stem clamp a little with a flathead screwdriver and jam in some coins. Still an absolute pig though
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• #3686
Itβs definitely possible, got the same combo on my Batavus. In addition to the coin/prying advice, make sure to route it the other way around the tight bend at the top: the bolt-side of the stem needs to be on the inner-curve side.
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• #3687
Thanks you lot. Tomorrow I'll try the soapy water, the screwdriver and the swearing. If you could all do some extra swearing for me it might help. Around 1pm.
@Ordinata thanks for the pic. On first glance your stem looks near 100mm ish and I need 120-130mm ish, so assuming it's on the shorter side I will pass. Which is a shame because I'd love a Cinelli on the tandem tbh...
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• #3688
I've held off here hoping someone would come up with a cleaver solution to your problem.
My suggestion is a Allan set-screw with a washer. Washer should be drilled to accommodate the Allan wrench but smaller than the set screw O.D. Insert set-screw fully into the threaded
portion of the stem. Insert the washer into the stem gap, then un-thread the set-screw using
the Allan wrench against the washer. This should spread the gap sufficiently to remove your handlebars. -
• #3689
It's also to do with making sure the quill part of the stem can clear the drop part of the bars (if you see what I mean)... you need to twist the clamp around the curve a little earlier than feels sensible (or possible) to make that happen. WD40 is your friend.
And you need to swear a lot. Don't forget that, it's very important.
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• #3690
Yep 100. Should of said. π
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• #3691
Would reverse pliers not do the job? I find they are usually best for avoiding scratches on bars
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• #3692
I have no such pliers!
But the stem has a little bolt for opening the clamp. So I'll stick a coin behind that, tighten it down as far as I dare, lube the bar up with soapy water, get the orientation sorted, add a flathead screwdriver for bonus spreadz if I'm desperate, and just pull and wiggle like mad. And turn the air blue with obscenities of course.
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• #3693
banger imo
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• #3694
Two Bob
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• #3695
Aye.
Mad skillz duralinox hidden underneath the glossy paint?
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• #3696
Oh yeah! Very good.
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• #3697
I like it
Also, hey doggo ;) -
• #3698
@tomalex @gaz @Sig_Arlecchino @ordinata @Doug_the_human @jeff80 @hoops
Success!!!
With the help of hand soap (applied neat), a coin behind the spreader bolt and the careful rotation of stem to position the clamp on the inside of tight bends.
Thanks you lot. Tandem upgrade continues!
Mangled coin included in photo. I think I have broken some law. Minor treason or something.
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• #3699
Fantastic! Both yours?
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• #3700
Yep complete π₯π₯π₯
What's the clamp size?