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  • Yesterday's bitching and moaning has prompted a flood of responses from trades. Knowing my luck they're "on here". Anyway, £160 to swap 3 TRVs and top up the inhibitor in the system, planned for this Thursday. I know I know, I could do that myself. But £160 to me is worth avoiding the half a day of stress that I'm about to flood the house or lock up my heating system.

    Also, I knew we needed a load of electrical work done. Not quite a re-wire, but at the VERY least a new CU. So I was delighted to get the quote for remedial works back following a dire EICR survey ("um, mate, your house has no earth....."), £1500 all in. Which considering I had that number in mind for just the CU, is a touch, in my book.

    Works to be carried out (code 2 and 3) from unsatisfactory EICR
    • Upgrade Distribution board (working up to 18th edition BS7671 standard with RCBO fitted with an advance system )
    • Renew meter tails to 25mm
    • Install main in coming earth to D.B
    • Install the bonding to the gas pipe and water pipe along with supplementary at the boiler.
    • Remake all spot light fitting to find earth continuity
    • Earth metallic class 1 fittings
    • Over look all pendents so the exposed connections are covered.
    • Renew pendent in living room
    • Bathroom light fitting is not I.P rated
    • Install metallic 4inch trunking lid
    • Remake immersion pump and expose connections
    • Secure front bedroom socket only
    • Renew battern hold on top floor
    • Renew or make good dinning room, hallways, bedroom switches
    • Fault find low insulation resistant
    • Renew or make good boiler light and under stairs
    • Make good front porch light or Renew
    • Fault find no sockets continuity or down grade MCB
    • EICR Re – test after installation (no charge minus £150)

  • Re the changing the trvs- you know the top of them just unscrews right, and you can replace the trv head and leave the valve as it is?

    That's no use to you if the valve is stuck i appreciate but if the pin in the trv is stuck or broken and you can't turn the rad up or down,you can just buy the replacement trv head from screwfix or whatever and replace it yourself without getting wet.

  • Yes, I know. I explained it before but not sure if it was this thread. I have Tado smart sensing heads. The TRVs (the actual valves) are a model that needs an adaptor for the Tado sensing head to screw onto. So I want to replace with a model that doesn't need an adaptor (a Drayton RT212 with an M30 x 1.5 thread). Plus, the bedroom one is leaking a drop or two of water every time the plunger/pin is actuated.

    Eventually all the TRVs in the house will be replaced. But the leaking one is a priority and the other two on that floor don't have rads connected (plastering/decorating those rooms), so I'm taking advantage of A) not having to bleed those radiators, and B) the system being drained down past that point to deal with the leaky one anyway, to get all three changed.

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