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  • In the last few years I've used Farrow&Ball, Little Green and an odd one called Porslin from Eico. At customers request. They are all much the same but I've learnt to be very thorough with the undercoat, then allow as many thin top coats as you think it needs so you're not trying to load the paint on. Also, never try to go back and touch up a panel while you're painting if the paint is acrylic. Last one I did I used scaffolding to set up a cover from dust and sun and that helped a lot. Thinking about it I'm starting to roll eggshell a lot more these days and that might make the process a lot easier.

    I used to dream about the No. 10 perfect gloss black door but then it occurred to me that there are probably at least 2 and they get sprayed and polished at huge expense in a dust free factory somewhere and switched over when they need it.

  • I think I read somewhere that they don’t use regular gloss paint on number 10. Loads of undercoats (as you recommend), then several coats of some kind of buffable black lacquer, with a clear polyurethane top coat. Probably sprayed, as you say. As expensive as the wallpaper no doubt.

  • If you're ever painting a front door gloss black people passing can't resist a 'No. 10' comment. :)

    It's surprising how much hotter black doors get from the heat of the sun. Most of the resin/knot problems I get asked about are on black or very dark colour doors.

  • Number 10 has a blast-proof steel door. Painting it is probably a bit different from a wooden one.

    They have two and swap them over very couple of years. Presumably the spare goes to a workshop somewhere for a sandblast and respray.

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