Home DIY

You can use diluted paste to seal the wall.
Trad was to use Size which used to be animal skin glue - and has a distinct smell
😋
The diluted paste would still be water soluble though I guess, size would need heat to dilute
Alternatives are PVA or SBR.

Caveat;
I haven’t done any papering for years (thank god).

Edit; sealing the wall correctly is important, you want to be able to move the paper - so you do t want too much suction but you don’t want it totally sealed or the paste dries like a skin and will peel off.
I’d recommend Size.

with deadman supports

I think it’s a two-person job on a platform.

The beams are likely not parallel so if you want a smart clean finish (tight fit or consistent shadow gaps) templating would be the way I’d go.

Can anyone recommend a good free cad website?

I want to draw my bath and then where I want everything. I need to show my wife who doesn’t seem to be able to visualise anything.

Sketchup?

Sketchup?

This.

Both for visualising things, and for planning them.

Also has the advantage of other people having already modelled a lot of stuff already - I've even used it to decide where to put plants.

Thanks. We’re trying to sort our bathroom and explaining why certain things won’t work is getting tiring.

What prep did people do?

Is the paint peeling or bubbling?
If not, I would just rub it down with 120 and undercoat.
Especially if it’s an old door that’s never been stripped, those old paints stick like shit, and form a great base layer and are full of yukky stuff that’s best not disturbed.
I still use oil based undercoat mostly - unless it’s a system microporous paint, but then you’ll need to strip down to bare wood.
😖

If the paint is lifting give it a good scrape and get off anything loose.
If it’s particularly bad you’ll have to make an executive decision as to whether it all needs to come off.

Also has the advantage of other people having already modelled a lot of stuff already

Most IKEA crap is available in a library.

I know someone who does really advanced stuff in Sketchup - animated walkthroughs of interlocking vaulted ceiling spaces with differing floor heights etc.

It’s great for simple stuff though, when I still bothered with Autocad I found I used Sketchup instead for drawing cabinets etc - especially to show to clients.

I'd use watered down PVA for that. More knowledgeable people may have a better option though.

+1 for Zinnser Allcoat. Have just painted a load of cladding and am about to do a door (if it ever stops raining for long enough). Good stuff and you can get it in any RAL colour.

It’s bubbling off in thick slices, not sure what it is but there is a noticeable step between where it is and where it has already come off. Almost looks like a plastic coating compared to paint I’m used to.

Oh crap. Sounds like it’ll all need to come off.

Careful of the heat gun and the glass (bitter experience)
Those carbide scrapers are great - the Bahco one I have is a favourite tool. BUT they’re brilliant at smashing glass - I managed to shatter a toughened glass double glazed unit I’d just fitted a while ago by just tapping it wrong.

Been hammering my makita bo6030 and have no complaints.

Yeah, I have a lot of Makita tools.
And no complaints.
I think the longevity/robustness is not what it was (my 15 yo SDS got retired to mixing plaster years ago and it’s still going)

The Metabo is at a similar price point + £20 - I’ll need to research some more.

I used a sheet of something, not sure what, to shield the glass from the gun blast. Still requires care, it’s tedious work and your attention slips. The Bahco carbide scrapers are great. Very satisfying. I tend to use a regular scraper first to lift the thick paint off then scrape back with the Bahco.

The Bahco carbide scrapers are great.

Whoops.

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Zinsser All Coat has been my go to in exterior paint for around 5 years. I've not seen any failures in white gloss but I painted a colour in matt a couple of years ago and it's not lasted anywhere near as well as I would have hoped. There are circumstances like dampish conditions and the hardwood probably doesn't like being painted but that's been my take on it so far.

I do still use Cover Stain as a primer on stripped pine, it's not moisture vapour permeable but it does resist the stain coming through. A lot of problems with doors and patches of paint bubbling are caused by knots or resin. An IR stripper will boil the resin out of the wood then you can scrape it off but it might be worth using a shellac knotting afterwards.

These days I strip pretty much anything exterior because it's easy with the cobra speedheater, but also because I'm usually only doing the job if it's in a bad way but can't be replaced.

I wouldn't worry about the short drying time with Allcoat but I'm inclined not to rely on it's self priming qualities. I usually go with Cover stain, 123, 2xcoats of Allcoat. I have several jobs within a stones throw of my house dating back 5 years and thy are all looking like new. Front doors can be a bit more tricky, any matt paint in a dark colour will heat up considerably more than white gloss. Most exterior paints are rated a couple of years more durable in white gloss than they are in any other combination.

I've only used sadolin products once, some people love them but I always used Dulux weathershield and have had good results with it until they changed to the waterbased.

Have a look at Gardz, I'm not sure if it's designed to do what you want but it's similar.

Double lining is an option but you don't mention what type/weight of lining paper you're using.

As already mentioned the walls should be 'sized'. In this day and age that's normally with the same paste as you're using for the paper. There are a couple of different types of paste but I usually use it premixed and I don't dilute it for sizing.

It seems from your description that the paint didn't have enough time to dry properly, I've seen this happening with papering before, normally it's a light colour and doesn't permeate the paper. I always use a thick lining paper these days, the lighter stuff isn't worth the problems it can give you.

If you're using an IR gun you can tape the glass with aluminium duct tape, it's won't protect it if you stop concentrating but it helps to reflect the IR and stops the glass heating up. Another method I've used is aluminium foil wrapped around hardboard as a shield.

There's an element of risk involved in any process where you have heat and glass. It's always a bit more jeopardy if the glass is a couple of hundred years old and new glass would stand out. I keep all the old glass I remove from windows for this reason, sometimes I can cut a new piece.

I don't recommend the oil based allcoat - horrible stuff - really smelly and very difficult to work - really 'draggy' and impossible to lay flat - once on, very little time to rework - I gather the water based stuff is better.

Wow!

It looked so cool, and made an amazing noise and carried on crackling for a few hours.
It was a total bummer though, I’d just rebuilt the window frame and cill from the transom down - the DG unit was a couple hundred quid.

Years ago I worked for a design/build company in the States, our major client was Urban Outfitters, we developed a triple laminated glass for their store windows - the middle layer got shattered with a punch so it basically looked like that ^^

Then Urban Outfitters stole the idea and put it on a t-shirt.

They were/are fucking shameless.

They are an idea stealing factory.
I knew a guy they paid to fly around the world taking spy shots of ‘cool kids’ to rip off their personal style

• which I suppose is fairly normal for the fashion industry.
  
  

But they were literally taking Diesel jeans apart and copying them exactly (this was 2000 and Diesel in the US was waaay cool)

I'd not heard of 'sizing' or lining paper until it all started to go wrong honestly.

The instructions that came with the wallpaper mention sealing a wall if pourous, but I thought it would be ok with two coats of white paint to onto. How necessary is the lining paper?