Home DIY

Sounds lively… but I figure anything is an improvement over gloss white OSB…

Something like this? the gap above the insulation only really works if it’s continuous from ridge to eaves. With vents at both to reduce build up of moisture levels. Something else I need to consider when I start loft conversion.

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veneer backed insulation panels

Could glue 4mm birch ply onto 50mm Kingspan and fix that up

What’s the other side of the OSB @Sam_w ? Is it just the roof membrane?

Edit; I see you had a similar idea.

Yep, that looks exactly like what I should do! Was wondering about air gap, so will go with your recommendation there, thank you!

Fun bit will be cutting the ply to fit, I’m bound to screw it up the first time when I go between the 2 different pitches.

Yep other side is 18mm OSB, then Membrane and roofing felt tiles. Would have loved to do it in cedar shingles but couldn’t justify the price.

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Not to state the obvious, but you wont be able to fit the panels in the top section without some careful planning or doing it in two length wise sections with a new center beam thing.

I'm not a builder, but I can easily see the opening is narrower than the piece youre fitting.

Yep, going to take a lot of annoyed angling, wedging and swearing to make things fit!

Finally getting ‘round to doing the hallway the last bit of the sticky jigsaw puzzle

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I’ve um’d and arr’d for too long, decided chevrons toward the stairs. if I can get the mini circular saw close enough to the wall, it’s gonna be single plank border both sides. Wish me luck I am still crap at cutting a straight line with that saw. BTW chevrons in to front room and dining room running left to right. I figured that the chevrons should guide oneself into each space. Also couldn’t be arsed to finish making good wall / decorating hallway first, I just want to get the parquet finquished.

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Seems like the kind of thing I'd think "oh I'll cross that bridge when I get there" and then realize elbow grease and determination isn't enough. You will damage your materials.

I see how you could plan for some angling, but there's less wiggle room than you think. I wonder if you don't need to put a batten at the top beam? it would just rest on the beam it's self and you could use more of the angling magic. Fingers crossed everything is square or else.... gaps. some may be quite large.

what about getting a good router and making a slot in the ridge beam to sit the panel inside? then no gaps... Although "clever" this is definitely a bad idea. don't do it.

personally, I'd mount strips and do it in panels with deadman supports, sheetrock, mud and tape.

again I'm no builder.

good luck.

Yeah, I’m currently head in the sand about making it look nice… to be fair it is only my home office so I care more about it being warm and quiet than looking nice!

Also should I be leaving an air gap between the insulation and the existing ceiling/roof?

Not just an air gap, but a ventilated one - irc, 50mm is recommended.

You could put air vents into the roof itself, i guess.

I’ll leave 50mm. To be fair the whole thing is pretty breezy, hence adding some insulation…

I would also add to Also remember the amount of turns to close it so that when you refit it, it’s still balanced

Is there a forum favourite exterior wood paint? For a front door in this case, probably grey.

Aye that’s if it’s even balanced

True that!

The weight of the roof is on three vertical posts like that, all with concrete footings (although on of the posts has rotted significantly due to being in contact with the wet clay) and also attached to the house on the upper side. The farthest post was encased up to the wood in the clay.

My neighbour is helping out (he's a retired building engineer) and he reckons we could straighten the beams a bit but I'm not sure on the method he's got in his head.

I’ve always been impressed with Leyland’s oil based gloss, but for best results you’ll need to take the door off and paint it indoors. I painted my neighbour’s front door in situ in Sadolin Superdec Satin, a water-based alkyd, which is quick to apply and more forgiving but still looked pretty good and is holding up well. I’d be keen to hear what other people have used.

I used Superdec Satin on my front door a few years ago. Found it nicer to use and really appreciate the water cleanup compared with oil-based. We'll see how it holds up but looking good so far. I also took the door off but I think it would be fine in place too.

The other thing I looked at was Zinnser Allcoat but the drying time of 30 mins or so looked to be too fast for my pace of work.

Log cabin above is painted in superdec, really rate it. We live up high and very exposed and it is standing up well.

I’ll look into superdec then! What prep did people do? I’d like to leave the door in place if possible (it’s massive) and I have a knockoff speed heater and a carbide scraper. There is a bit of beading around glass panes but it’s not very fancy.

Got away with yesterdays wallpapering nightmare as the good folk at Photowall are sending out a fresh set of paper foc.

Can anyone recommend something for sealing a newly painted wall to stop the paint from mixing with the paste again? Is a thin layer of paste applied first a good idea?