Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

:)

Probably one for the mechanic's thread to be honest. But with the chain on it behaves the same. Easily shifts off the biggest cog, the limit screw is at one extreme. It takes about 10 clicks on the micro adjust for it to shift into the 11T. Def seems like the mech is mounted too far inboard.

Edit - I'm switching the groupset over from my Fairlight Strael and they have confirmed that they swap out the road link type bit for their own custom one. They think it's very likely that could be the cause. They have an original they can give me.

have you started from scratch with the di2 app ? whatever was setup in the software for the previous frame might not be adjustable with the micro-adjust

Stealth edit above. I have reset everything i can in the ipad app but don't have a PC for full cabled access.

You’re right to look at this mechanically and ignore the Di2 aspect. Possible causes include.

• Bent hanger
  
• Chain too long
  
• Cassette too big
  
• B screw too far out
  
• Cassette not mounted properly
  

i see. not sure by how much things are offset compared to a regular link, but if indeed fairlight use a custom one for di2 derailleurs, it could be that the di2 cannot compensate.

I don't believe there's anything that alters the basic ability to shift other than the trim value you already have access to.

It's almost like the whole mech is mounted two far inboard

That's easily solved with a shim between dérailleur and hanger. One of my bikes needed this to get top gear. Chain ring bolt shims work and are readily available in various thicknesses

i don't understand the meaning of that, but when you set-up the derailleur from scratch it gets its basic position with the cassette as a point of reference

i don't understand the meaning of that, but when you set-up the derailleur from scratch it gets its basic position with the cassette as a point of reference.
it seems logical that if the fairlight design puts the derailleur out of bounds, they produced a derailleur link with an offest to compensate.

Is the frame direct mount or are you using the b-link that comes attached to the derailleur?

I never really delved into that part...

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Shimano-Officially-Introduces-Direct-Mount-Rear-Derailleurs.html

Can't say I get many frames through the door with it but have had puzzled customers in the past who try and do their own work and are miffed when I mention the B2 link. Sounds more like a tunnel for commuters.

Thanks all. Got an original Shimano link from Fairlight today and it all works correctly now. Waiting for my new jockey wheels to arrive as my current ones are shot and the drivetrain doesn't sound very pretty, but it works ok.

I would have tried that, but the custom link from Fairlight has quite a short thread so would have been less than ideal.

NEW TECH.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-granted-patent-for-drivetrain-with-a-direct-mount-derailleur.html

I can't even buy current tech.

Is anyone on here running AXS Eagle mech and shifter with Shimano cassette and chain?

Pink Bike said this is the ideal combination, and you get the benefits of both systems.

Yeah so I have full xx1 axs on my 5010.
I feel like the eagle cassette is what causes the annoying clunkyness and terrible up shifting under even the tiniest amount of power.

So I've bought a 12speed shimano cassette, chain and chain ring to use with the axs mech.

Still haven't got round to fitting it yet but from what I've read online the 12 speed shimano cassettes shift better, especially under power.
But it important to use the shimano chain to to get the full benefit.
The chainring it's self is probably less important to the actual shifting but I switched the chainring to ensure best chain retention.

I'd be very interested in your feedback once you've got some miles on the hybrid setup.

I've read this article and the comments are quite interesting - they seem to agree that swapping the Shimano pulleys into the SRAM cage is required (with some minor dimensional adjustments).

Shimano jockey wheels are made of cheese

Take that observation to the comments on that article.

Dibs all your Shimano

Kogel make replacement pulley wheels for most types of rear mech, I emailed them to ask if they made a set that would allow a Shimano 12 speed chain to be happy running through a SRAM AXS Eagle mech (rather than taking the pulleys out of an XTR mech and filing them until they fit).

They said that this set would be suitable: