Home DIY

Well, it looks great from this distance :)

Your technique is well established, I'm not going back to that any time soon though.

I usually go from (80 on the uncut edge if I'm using it) 120-240-320-400. It's quite time consuming but no drying times and it takes paint like the surface of the board so no adjustment needed later on. I still hide edges with a mitre if I really want it invisible.

I learnt about this treatment when I had £7k worth of shop fittings sprayed. They have a machine that just polishes the edges of boards.

Ah for sure. Also, the mafell does a really clean cut that’s way beyond what the normal machined edge so it’s halfways there already. Never have an exposed board edge anywhere that’s not been cut. Fuzzy nightmare!

I ran out of time, energy and wood.
😭

Is there somewhere in reasonable driving distance from lewisham I can get iroko - preferably sawn - I can machine it in my mates shop.
I used to go to Moss before they moved but I’ve a feeling there’s a couple of places SE like Croydon (?)

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Treating scaffold boards for outdoor furniture - marine varnish or what else?

SL Hardwoods

...what else?

Anything other than scaf planks

That was it!
Thanks.

Recommendations for a sealer for the iroko? ^
I was just going to let it grey down but it’s a bit too lush.
Osmo make an expensive one.
Liberon make a cheap one.

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Anyone familiar with wood fibre underlay? Looking at the stuff that comes in green sheets for going under laminate or wood. I'm rearranging furniture in my bedroom and considering laying it as a temporary option - the floorboards are uneven with random gaps and it's above the kitchen which is really cold in winter. They'll get redone eventually but it's not a priority.
Half the room will have a big rug on top but it'll be exposed under the bed, with boxes and things that'll get pulled across it.

Specs say no glue or resin, does it shed dust if exposed? Do the corners lift or does it tend to stay put? Specs recommend tape across joins - is that for airtightness rather than fixing down? I was thinking carpet tacks if necessary. It's not a proper solution but just thinking of something that's relatively cheap and easy to install an improves the current situation. There's also a flexible woodfibre carpet underlay that comes on a roll but I thought the sheets might be slightly more durable under the bed.

Do you think anything will pour out of this pipe if I trim it back further?
Comes out of what would of been the back of the house into the 90s kitchen extension.

Skirting fouls new kitchen units doors at one end so was going to run a low profile wooden bead thing to cover flooring edge and paint the stone.

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Late reply, but they do both 1.3 and 1.5ah batteries. Maybe they mostly come bundled with tools.

Nice looking timber and nice minimal threshold. I can’t stand steps out to gardens.

Nice looking timber

I got lucky with it.
My mate has a long standing gig making planters for one of that there London’s fancier restaurants- they’re clad in iroko slats and this was surplus to the last batch.
It’s about 400 quids worth. I gave him £80 for it, which he was happy with (it was already paid for - and some).
Unfortunately I now need to buy enough to finish off

Now smoother than the rest of the wall (except the one patch of easifill that mysteriously didn't dry). I'm happy with that as a first go (a bugger to photograph).

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Now smoother than the rest of the wall

And therein lies the problem :)

It can be an issue sometime if your repair is too much soother than the surrounding wall but normally a rolled finish will blend in. It's why I recommend a sponge instead of sanding, in lots of cases it helps to hide the repair.

Given the value of the wood, I'd go for the Osmo. Iroko is a beautiful figured timber. I used Ipe for my deck and let it grey, but it doesn't have the figuring that yours does. I probably wouldn't buy Ipe again, given how dodgy the FSC certification around it has become.

Again, the whole room will be gutted and redecorated in the near future. This whole wall might even get skimmed

Is there a forum-recommended foolproof chisel sharpening system? Assume I won't go too far wrong with a couple of decent stones and a honing guide? Not doing any find woodworking, but want to keep them in good shape if I can.

Seems like it can get expensive quick and there's a lot of choice for stones and such. Any pointers greatly appreciated.

If you’re not doing fine woodwork in hardwoods, just flatten the back of the chisel until there’s a good shine on it, making sure it’s all the way to the tip. If the back isn’t flat, ye chisel will never be sharp.
Then just sharpen the other side using the guide a few degrees off the main angle that the tip is ground at.
According to YouTube it takes hours to sharpen a chisel, but doing that has always left me with chisels that are plenty sharp enough. Knowing how to use a chisel and not trying to make it work too hard/remove too much material at once makes a lot of difference with how sharp it needs to be IMO.

Many will disagree im sure.

Apologies, I forgot we had that conversation.

I would describe my current setup as expensive but probably the core part is a dmt duo-sharp bench stone on the stand they make. I could and did do almost everything with that until I got a Tormek.

https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/bench-stones/duo-sharp-bench-stone.html

For a honing guide there are lots of options and the one I have is good but has some issues so I wouldn't necessarily recommend it.

https://www.swanseatimber.co.uk/hand-tools/sharpening/VERITAS-Honing-Guide-System-Mk-ii/prod_3980137.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkN6EBhBNEiwADVfyayPMKF71bFM59i9s3Hu3UNUg83077hjUza6QU-G4e7Dn7c-fNLfrBxoC7R4QAvD_BwE

I hope that's not your idea of expensive.

No worries. Yeah this was all just about practice/having a go.

On the subject of plastering, has anyone ever used some sort of heat-proof plaster before?

My builder made a complete balls of installing my cassette type bio-ethanol fire so I'm considering ripping it out and doing it myself. Fairly confident in the construction but the finishing may be a challenge considering I've never plastered before and this stuff says you can't sand or feather it.

Got myself a multitool. Why have I not had one before now? Fool.

Welcome to the club.