Home DIY

Impact adhesive might work, but it's not particularly permanent.

You could try by slapping a load of wood glue on, but use mitre glue to get the initial stick.

Lots of things in cartridge tubes at Leyland. No More Nails, Stixall etc. I hate glue but I’ve had pretty good luck with that kind of thing.

CT1 will stick shite to a wall, I’d give that a bash. Pricey but better than any grab adhesive on the market.

I was on a job and the joiner was sticking shelf’s to the wall with it 😂😂😂

Perfect, any chance of a link? There are still plenty to choose from and I'd like to avoid using adaptors as you say.

Any of these should be ok

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Lockshield-Radiator-Valve---15mm/p/420018
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Thermostatic-Radiator+Lockshield-Valve/p/114000
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Thermostatic-Radiator-Valve/p/113999
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Microbore-Pressurised-Radiator-Valve-Bar---8mm/p/424947
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Radiator-Valve---10mm-Pack-Of-2/p/160080

Maybe just some kingspan / other PIR instead - you can install it between the rafters with a gap between it and the sarking, allowing air flow from the soffit / eaves.

Good advice.
This is what I did in my bathroom when I had the ceiling down.

The air gap is key, otherwise you create a warm roof and that needs breathable membranes etc.

Today I will be decking.
It’s taken half a day to eat breakfast, get materials and bring the tools down from the loft.
Fml.

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The iroko has been on site (ahem) for almost a year.

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That pointing looks like it might need a bit of work soon.

What's the mortar like behind it? We found that ours had turned to sand, once the cement had fallen out.

The pointing is a mess, the actual gaps are where I’ve repaired/ replaced bricks in recent memory so the mortar there is fine.
But I’m planning to put a corner window in what used to be the outside privy- but is now where my sink is - so it can all get re-done then.

Like this.
Apologies for the mess, didn’t expect company.

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Where there's a will there's a clamping force.

Kitchen starting to look like one at last.

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Kitchen fitting is the mother of invention.
👍
Birch ply looks v good.
Did you cut that yourself?
I would recommend going around all the edges with a laminate trimmer with a bearing chamfer bit - if you haven’t already (they look pretty sharp) this will make them much longer lasting.

I’m after a rotary cut Douglas fir faced ply at a decent price to make drawer and door fronts for my bathroom if anyone has a lead.

Interesting, I'm definitely keen to make them longer lasting. What kind of profile would that leave?

After much wrangling about the cutting I got them CNC'd. Partly as I thought it would save time and partly because the work top cost a small fortune and I couldn't face the doors not doing the work top justice as it were.

In the end there were other issues that slowed the project down, and if I was doing it again I would just spend a bit more money on a nice track saw. I've messed up a couple of measurements so will need to cut some new doors anyway.

It’s quite a hard thing to photo (I’ve just found out)
The white melamine faced ply doors have quite a big chamfer cut around them but it can be smaller like on the kitchen door.
If you don’t cut a chamfer or ease the edges with a sanding block the birch veneer on the face will get caught and break off.

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This looks great!

Breaking off doesn't sound ideal.

Sounds like you mean just knocking the 90 degree angle off the edge of the birch, can I achieve that without the specialist tool?

I just use sandpaper.

Perfect.

Sandpaper and a block will work.
You have a lot of edges though - may take some time.
You get a cleaner sharper result with a trimmer or mini router.

I’ve been getting douglas fir throughout from Richard Russell. If it’s not that many drawer fronts you may find going for solid timber works out cheaper.

you may find going for solid timber works out cheaper.

I had thought the same.
A sheet of DF ply is around £160 and I need 2. How much are you paying from R. Russell?

I think the rotary cut veneer is the look I want, but it might be too busy.

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I would defend that look, seen it in a few cottages. I think as long as it’s the only “pattern” going on in the room it could be great, much warmth.

So many edges.

Something like this https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-workshop-edgebanding-trimmer-200099?glCountry=GB ?

That one just straight trims laminate that's been glued to the edge.