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@Tijmen
I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing but I hope I can make sense of it later by documenting it here.
I made some progress on the cycling jersey for a friend, I took this pattern as a starting point and went to work. The S seemed to be the closest fit, but it was still a bit big in the shoulder (or so I think, it's very hard to see with a raglan sleeve and I really regret not going for a standard sleeve) so I made it a tad narrower there. Then I messed around with the shoulder part of the body bits (technical term) until the lengths of the curves matched again. I'm aiming for about 15% stretch so I multiplied the circumference measures with 0.85 and then I did some calculations I can't quite trace back to make the back a bit wider than the front, as that's what the original pattern did. I made a curved spline around the three width measures and then added the dropped tail by making the spline tangent with the curve on the front.
Up next is figuring out seam allowances for hemming, zipper, and collar and then I'll just have to cut and slap something together. I'm using the overcast stitch on my sewing machine as that's the neatest looking stretch stitch, I don't see myself getting a serger anytime soon so I hope it works. I also bought twin needles for hemming the sleeves.
I might get some stretch thread as it'd be nice to just use a straight stitch (I could even use the industrial machine then?), any thoughts on that?
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