Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15963296/

Help pls. Or tell me its enough clearance...

What frame is it? Reckon it's stiff enough?
For what it's worth, I just filed my crank down a little. Not sure how you feel about that.

Disk brake newbie question:
Is there anything particularly bad/unsafe about the cheap (£10 or under) rotors that I see for sale? I have Tektro hydraulic calipers on a beater I'm building for a 6 mile fair weather commute on a mix of road and bridleway. Will a Clarks/Avid brand rotor or similar do the job?
Thanks

A rotor is a very very simple piece of metal, unless very very badly manufactured and these days with CNC machining and cutting it is unlikely.
Yes they will do a similar if not just as good a job.

The metals and heat treatments can be different, but for a beater commuter you'll be fine with whatever, the cheapest Shimano ones are resin pads only and sintered do fuck them up, so might be worth checking on other cheapos.

@freezing77 @snottyotter Good to hear, thanks for the advice. I found some reasonably priced Avids on fleabay so went for them.

Having an issue with my seatpost slipping on CAAD10. Original carbon seatpost on alu frame. Perhaps caused by grime getting in there while washing.

I've tightened the heck out of it, probably too much judging from the lack of gap in the clamp, but I don't think it's fixed. Would carbon grip paste be the way to sort this? Or cleaning and regreasing?

take it out, clean it and the inside of the seat tube, apply grip paste, torque correctly. It shouldnt be greased (if it is that's why it's slipping)

If it still slips measure the post and seatube with calipers to determine where the issue lies

Thank you for the steer.

Took it out and can see evidence of the slipping ... it looks like the lacquer layer on the seatpost has been scraped off at various heights. Reckon it's ok to carry on with?

Giving this bike a service for a friend of mine who complains it creaks a lot. First thought was the BB but it felt solid i. E. No play in it.

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Dropped the headset down and the bearings were pretty dry. Some grease in there but not much in contact with the actual bearings so i repacked them and refitted

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Cleaned a load of grease off everywhere else (in loads of places except where it actually should be) and finally got around to popping out the BB to inspect it.

Can anyone see the issue here? (it's just for fun, no prizes)

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Looks like the spindle has moved or is very short on the drive side.

Also he has some mega range cassette on the rear and it wasn't shifting into the lowest gear. I think the issue is the B screw which was bent and with bits gouged out of the thread.

I replaced it with a spare one I had but as I screw it in it doesn't align properly with the screw stop on the frame so I can only push the derailleur a certain distance down and this isn't enough to accommodate the bottom gear.

Is there a way of sorting this? The end stop is very small so doesn't seem enough to bend into place.

If I find a small bolt that fits onto the screw thread would that work? I. E. I'm thinking it would make the end of the screw wider and would then remain in contact with the screw stop.

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It's not really obvious from the pic above but my thought is screw the b screw through the mech and then put a bolt onto the end of it. This bolt would then sit on top of the screw stop.

not quite. It does look short yes but that is the non-drive side (left) with the BB inserted the wrong way around (you can see the R on the BB sticker).

I'm assuming whichever cowboy did this bought a modern threaded BB and then realised that the frame is threaded the opposite way so just flipped the BB over.

undoubtedly this is leading to creaking on the drive side

A small nut on the end of the thread?

Make sure it stays put!
Either some threadlock or double up on the nuts and tighten together.
Maybe a nyloc nut?

the frame is threaded the opposite way

How the hell did that happen? Unless they've put a BSA BB in an Italian threaded frame. Which would be very loose and the wrong length

The numbers on the label indicate it’s ISO/BSA.

There’s no BB standard with a left hand threaded NDS, so my guess would be it’s been boshed in both sides with brute force.

(Or the frame was threaded the wrong way round…)

I'm trying to put some cantilever brakes back onto a repainted frame and am having a couple of issues:

1. One of the bolts won't go in more than a few turns before it tightens.

2. On all of the bolts there is a small gap between the rubber spring covers and the mounts on the frame (where the brakes are supposed to go all the way on but for some reason don't).

It was all working fine when I unbuilt the bike and I kept all the bits together so I don't think there's anything missing.

The frame was properly masked-off when it was repainted.

Any help much appreciated... my girlfriend will be needing her bike back soon for work!

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Sounds like paint/powder has got into the threads and built up around the lips of the canti studs.

Threads will need chasing with a tap, and lips gently filing/sanding until the brakes sit flush like before.

If you do not have a tap of the correct size, get a spare bolt and cut a slot down the threads with a hacksaw , i.e. along the length of the bolt and run this up and down the internal threads a few times to clear the paint. The slot is to allow the paint somewhere to go.

Thanks both... there's a guy round the corner who'll have a go at chasing / tapping for me. Hopefully that will sort it out.

I noticed a clicking noise from my drivetrain the other day and on closer inspection have found that my cranks have a bit of play in them at the bottom bracket. It's a hollowtech II BB (97% sure) with the spindle that goes through atached to a highly off-trend tiagra triple chainset. The BB is probably 9-10k miles old. But the chaninset is maybe 3000miles old and fitted by a shop. Is there anything obvious I should be trying before replacing the BB/Chainset?

I the play side to side or radially?