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Falconvitesse's cotter pin method looks fine and has the benefit that no money needs to be spent. However there is one thing missing in the photo: the retaining nut should be left on the thread, unscrewed to the top of the thread so that it is just flush with the end of the pin. This goes a long way towards protecting the thread - we don't want the expense of having to buy new cotter pins!
In Other News
That Sturmey sprocket (my post 3951)
This pic refers to Absurd Bird's post 3706 inwhich he refers to the decline in quality of European parts. That sprocket is modern and made in the far east, but it is for a British brand.
As you can see it's noticeably worn but I doubt if it's done as much as 2,000 miles, which I think is pathetic. What's more I'm not putting much pressure on (aged and weak) and I rarely go out in the rain. In addition, this is the second sprocket of this type I've worn out rapidly. These sprockets seem to be made on the assumption (often correct) that the bike will never be ridden more than a couple of times: they're like the famous cans of sardines that weren't for eating, just for buying and selling!
So it was for much of the British bike trade from the sixties onward. I'm not talking about the artisan frame builders and quality components, but the mass market stuff as in the TI companies. I think they could see the writing on the wall and were demoralised - the future looked bleak so why buy any new plant - if the TDC fixed sprockets came out oval because the machine they were made on was clapped out, it was just tough and no one would do anything before the inevitable bankruptcy.
Just the same arrangement as British Leyland.
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clubman
See photo for my cotter removal process. It's a solid speaker stand with a socket large enough for the cotter to fall through. Same process on both sides.
Basically this way the stand and socket take the strain not the axle.
There is probably an official tool and technique for cotter removal but I found this to be pretty reliable.