Dammit’s adventures in mountain biking

It’s a lot of fun, and I do think it makes a big difference- so much shorter, and the smaller wheels are much more suited to the way the pump tracks are designed.

You are welcome to borrow mine to try it out?

I’m going to replace my 800mm wide 30mm rise Burgtec carbon bars with some Renthals because nostalgia- if anyone wants the Burgtecs please let me know.

Oops

Very kind of you, but I'm over in Kingston so bit of a trek to your haunts I think.

There are a few things locally for not silly money so might treat myself to a midlife crisis.

I would not need anything else than your Pace. Looks wicked

if anyone wants the Burgtecs please let me know.

I might be pending price and clamp size 31.8 or 35?

In other news, I just ordered the Raceline MT7’s.

This is not surprising. Let me know if the og nightmare set start looking for a new home. Even though I've witnessed the horror in trying to get them to work, I'm curious to know if they really are noticeably more powerful than Codes.

35mm clamp for the bars. I’ll give you a shout when I’m told that the Racelines have turned up.

I will say that when they work they’re great, and when you own them you become an expert on keeping them working.

Ive not yet tried my new MDR-P rotors (fork and shock have been away being serviced), but all the reviews say that they’re a big step up .

Also, I’ve got such an investment in Magura tools now that I’m hopelessly locked in.

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35mm clamp for the bars

I'll give it a miss then, looking for 31.8

Ok I'll mull over the mt7's.
The thought of investing in all the tools is slightly off putting but give me a bell when they arrive anyway.

To be fair all you really need is a bleed kit, but I'm somewhat obsessive about being able to do things "correctly", so if it says "torque to 4Nm" I want to be able to do it, whereas basically everyone else will just snug it up so it feels right.

Had a note from Fin at Full Factory Suspension - shock and fork should be with me tomorrow.

He's adjusted the shock for what he thinks will work - lighter weight oil for faster rebound which apparently suits the fully-floating design (this is over my head).

Yeah if your lighter weight and are riding in more moderate weather then you'll benefit from lighter oil. Also Rockshox oil is to viscose really, even stepping down one weight and using better oil will have a marked improvement.

Were you riding with no rebound? As the main difference make is on the compression?

Lighter oil didn't really make much difference with Fox forks, possibly because the oil they use is already fairly light. Also when you open it up you might find it wasn't assembled like they suggest you service it... Nothing like an inch of grease on air spring to block your transfer ports.

I'm somewhat obsessive about being able to do things "correctly"

I share the same pedantry. There is nothing better than having the correct tool for the job.

My only niggle is that the calipers are not rebuildable. Magura don't seem to sell seal and piston kits.

My understanding (which is based on talking to people who have done this, but not Magura themselves) is that if you encounter a problem that needs a rebuild then you post the brake to Magura and they either rebuild it or send you a brand new one. You don’t know which way they’ll go, but you will get a working brake back.

Personally I have not done this , but I’ve spoken to a number of people who all had the same experience.

The slotted nut driver to allow correct torque of the hose nut was ~£6.50, and I have a spare I can give you.

The torque screw driver for the EBT screws (0.3Nm as I found even 0.5Nm would strip the plastic thread) was around a hundred quid, but tbf you could just turn the screw until the gap between the underside of the head and the lever is flush, but you still feel essentially no resistance and that’s about right.

Rebound is four clicks from max (from the sheet, I’m assuming 10 clicks available as I don’t have the shock), the overall tune of the shock is described as “a light compression tune”, and he’s replaced 7 weight oil with 5. That probably means a lot more to you than it does to me- what I can report is that when I originally changed the old shock for the new the bike felt much, much more lively- jumped into the air when before it lumbered.

Depends what you're looking for really, I'm looking more for speed and control than air time. Obviously see what it's like when you get it back but it sounds like you'll just need an extra click to the damping, and you might need less break away force to get it moving depending on how your shock works.

I like jumping off everything on the trail that has even a mild lip, possibly because I'm a huge child.

Put the fork and shock back on, sat on the bike to get the levers in the right place (also changed the bar) and, in joggers and a hoodie, I'm getting 20% sag on the shock. I wonder how much all my kit weighs? I guess there's 2.5kg of water in there, plus tools and so on.

The old Dammit wouldn't be guessing the weight of things

I’m 8kg lighter than when I set the pressures, I also set the suspension up in an Alpine DH park. Maybe I should do it again.

Does this work?

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I think that the power selection feature of the levers may have positioned the actuator too far to the side, and combined with the rear brake having fouled its pads yet again I’m squeezing the lever hard enough that the plunger has enough of a diagonal force being applied to stick in the bore and not return.

I’ve dialed the power up slightly which will centre the actuator and will see what that does with regards to the issue.

Magura MT7- can’t skid on gravel. This one, today, anyway.

The brakes are leaking? Again?

Pads have fouled themselves somehow, I don’t know how. The bike has been hanging up indoors with the wheels leaning against the wall whilst I waited for the suspension to come back.

Lever feel doesn’t change if you pump it so doesn’t seem to be a leak, but I am buggered if I know why this happens

Swinley

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