Custom build by Spoon Customs

Ok, the list is getting smaller, but at this point there are high chances I will go with SpoonCustoms/WyndyMilla, the quote was reasonable, they can offer custom builds on pretty much any material (Steel, Aluminium, Carbon and possibly Titanium too), I like their work, and they are part of the cycle to work scheme, so overall quite a win. I'll continue updating the conversation with all the news, phots, etc. as soon as they come in.

They do great paintjobs too

It would appear so, and I have no idea what to go for, still something on the white side, or maybe I could mimic my car design so that they can look like twins... decisions, decisions, decisions.

Ok, it's settled, custom build will most likely be a Columbus Spirit HSS steel build and it will be carried on under the Spoon Customs brand, updates to come hopefully soon.

Ok people first of all, a big update, Spoon Customs managed to source a set of Columbus Serie 100 and that's what we will use for this build, I'm super exited about it.

Additionally I need input on the build. I basically have about £1500 spare to spend on it but I'm not sure on how to spend them. Basically from the original list of components I could/would update any of the following:

Handlebars/Stem/Seatpost: Fizik Cyrano R5 full set
Saddle: Bontrager Montrose
Brakes: Campagnolo TT Centre Pull (this was a weird choice of mine, basically I ended up having a cable splitter mod so I can operate one brake with two levers)
Pedals: Shimano 105 5800 SPD SL

About the above, for the pedals I might be willing to consider SPDs of the type like the Look X-Track and for the brakes I would probably like to maintain the centre pull and the 2 in 1 system because I like it's symmetry but I would also like to improve because the current implementation sucks. Brake lever could also be up for upgrade.

I will welcome your suggestions. Thanks.

Saddle is totally a personal preference thing but when I had a bike fit I tried both the Montrose and the Aeolus elite (the short nose version) both in the 145mm width and liked the latter more. Although the main consideration should be the saddle works for you and not necessarily cost.

As for the finishing kit I think the Zipp service course beyond black stuff looks nicer than the Fizik stuff.

Completely agree on the saddle, but I just wanted to throw in there for completeness. I'll definitely check the Zipp finishing kit.

Personally I would swap out the bmx style levers (if that's what you're running at the moment) for proper hoods. Even if it's only one connected to the brake, it'll be symmetrical and way more comfortable. Your brain will quickly learn which hand activates the brake. Have you specced just front brake for the new build or front and rear?

Check the road fixed thread for more examples:

We didn't spec anything yet in that regard, actually at Spoon they are now going to drawing board to see if they can come up with some ideas on a dual brake setup that can look as symmetrical as possible. And yes I'm running BMX style, you can see what I did here; to be fair I'm not a huge fan of the look, I find them too bulky.

Another random thought: have you considered 650b or another smaller wheel size, to reduce toe overlap? I know some brands spec their smaller size frames e.g. Surly Straggler as 650b for the very same reason.

Negatives: tyre choice, wheel choice.

I was about to reply with that but you beat me on time. I suppose that if we can't fully clear the overlap in a safe way whilst retaining a good aesthetic and handling as well, it might be the only path.

I would like to keep that as very last resort also because there is not much coming in that size when it comes to road wheel sets for the little I saw, they more often than not gravel/mtb.

You then have to take into consideration, I presume, calliper placement and also the fact aesthetically the front fork won't exactly look nice with the added 5cm or so clearance.

2 levers (with hoods) , Problem Solvers 2:1, brake. Sorted.

I ran that for a bit. It works.

The with that one is that it's way too long, that's why ended up using the Jtek one instead as you can see here

But even this setup is a bit crumped, which I guess it can be resolve moving the tensioner somewhere else, maybe some thing shorter attached to the top of the headtube I don't know.

I ran my jtek adapter on a small extension of outer cable as I didn’t have space on the cable run. It created a bit of a loop, but worked ok.

My head tube was shorter than yours, I think, so definitely had no space for the adapter directly in the cable stop.

Do you have a picture by any chance? It would be nice to have a look at it for comparison and inspiration. Thanks.

It didn’t look great, but worked pretty well.

If I had a little bit more head tube and steerer tube, I could have got it to run roughly parallel with the handlebars and would have improved the cable run a lot more.

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Thanks for sharing, I’ll take this approach in consideration for sure

Some progress on the build, a sneak peek on the tubing

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Sorry @Tijmen I had to re-upload because the forum doesn't seem to support jpeg-2000

That first photo...? One tube seems to have some bendage/dentage going on?

Nice, I'd love a cento road frame

It's an optical illusion, if you look closely you'll notice every tube is wrapped in protective plastic, what you are seeing is the wrapping being creased.