Home DIY

These anchors with a setting tool? The setting tool should pull it tight enough to get purchase I'd think

What is it (for)?

These are the type that vitsoe give you to hang 40kg cabinates from dry wall.

It’s the drive wheel from this

https://extramachinery.com/products/linishing-attachment-50x915mm-la915u-for-industrial-grinderswivel-360-degree-with-adjustable-tool-rest

I’m currently in the process of removing paint from my front wall with Stripaway 7. I think it’d cope with that step pretty easily.
Another cheaper option (that I’ve not tried yet but will at the weekend) is to mix your own lye with Caustic soda, water and wallpaper paste.

Edit to @rogan for your front door.
Stripaway is available in 2 versions - no 1 for old lead based paints, no 7 for modern paints. You can get a tester with both if you’re not sure what paint you gave.

How do I get the paint off of the external windowsills? It's flakey and cracked.

One of the plastered told me to burn it off using a heat gun which I started doing but then it went into this weird putty like substance.

Have you got a paint scraper?

Yeah scrape it off with a carbide blade.

Sanding sponge for the residues

I don't think that type need a setting tool. As @Howard has already mentioned, Vitsoe provide the Hilti version for use with their system when it's mounted on plasterboard. The little hook you can see on the underside of the face plate stops it from spinning while you do it up (almost all of the time!).

It does depend on the type of paint you're removing. You might also be melting 2 part filler that's been applied to smooth the cills in the past.

You're doing all the jobs that I started in a half-arsed way about 5 years ago and have remained in that state since (half-painted front door, half-scraped windowsills etc). Maybe this year...

They don't need one but I find they're easier to use with one. You can make sure they're nice and firmly located before screwing anything in. Also farfowl was saying they couldn't get purchase at the back which the setting tool should fix.

Edit: thinking about it the last time I used these was on a tiled wall so the spike couldn't stop it spinning

It wouldn't be my go to on tiling but it's good to have choices. I thought the problem with insulation is how it fouls anything spun into it, the type I linked to have the advantage of only needing to be screwed in directly and the insulation then provides a little extra grip. I'm sure they're not rated for the same weight but there are only a few circumstances where that would be more important than the shear strength of the wall.

Anyone here built a garden shed? Lead time on any of the better ones is 4-5 months at the minute so thinking of having a go at a diy one.

First step, would you build it sitting on top of a tarmac driveway? Gets pretty windy here but not sure if it would ever be strong enough to lift an 8x10 shed.

1 Attachment

They told me that about my Beast Shed. They had a cancellation and it was with me in 9 days.

Not sure if this is a question for here or the kitchen/bathrooms thread, but...

I'd like to fit something like https://www.directwoodflooring.co.uk/evocore-essentials-herringbone-champagne-oak.html in our en-suite. The shower tray is about 35mm tall, and the laminate 5mm tall.

What's the best way to finish the edge of the laminate that's against the shower tray? The default for an exposed edge would be a scotia, but is there anything else I should be considering?

More fun under the floor. Thankfully hasn't gone through the entire joist but does run the length of it. Hopefully sistering the whole thing sides will hold for another 130 years, rather than smashing the hearth out and lifting the floor.

1 Attachment

Come this way sir...

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/195145/

And re: driveway, as long as it's level/you can get the shed base level, it should be fine. Allow drainage/airflow underneath it to avoid damp, and away you go

Yeah, I put together a shed from scratch, 3x2.5m with a pent roof. It was really good practice on how to build a shed...and not. And if over engineering puts you off best ask someone else!

Would this be anything you need to worry about? Is it flexing at all?

Just about to get started on mine. It'll be a lean-to as I already have the roof. But I need to level off the ground and pour a small retaining wall for the slope behind. I have zero experience, but luckily my neighbour has just finished building his own house and is retired so he knows what he's doing and has lots of free time to help.
It'll be about 3.5m square and needs to fit 8 bikes, workbench and storage. Luckily there will be quite a bit of vertical space.

Good question. It might not be but it's hard to tell as the floor above it is covered in boxes and other crap that we've pulled out of the cellar while we finish insulating the floor from under and repaint the cellar.

There are two 'split' joists down there, they're thicker than the others (7x4 rather than 7x3) and have a similar sized cross running between them (mortise and tenon joints) where the hearth is. The joists in between are fixed to this cross piece.

Figure for the cost of a couple of graded 7x2s, a couple of tubes of adhesive, a bag of big nails and half a day of my time it should reduce the risk of it getting any worse...

I have an unused tumble dryer vent (100mm) that I want to cover but leave to be reused if we need. I'm planning on shoving some insulation into the hole the screwing a flat piece of aluminium 200mm*200mm to the wall and sealing around it.

Where can I get the cover? Everything I find is slatted.

Fully erect, MIL congratulated me on it this morning.

1 Attachment

Nice job! What shed is that?