Home DIY

Also, for the two I'm looking at replacing, the lock shield valve is 3/4" and the TRV is 1/2". Would a new rad come with multiple couplings or do I need to buy an adaptor/different coupling for either side? If so, what?

Now we’re talking

So one pipes 15mm and the other 22mm. Weird way to pipe something. Rads don’t come with valves usually and they are extra. I’d personally reduce the 22 under the floor and make them both 15! Danfoss twin packs although there seems to be mad love for they bloody tado things on here

Size of the radiator without the values, if it’s metric your good if it’s an old imperial size your onto extenders or moving the pipes

No, the pipes are the same, it just looks like TRVs were added and their connection to the rad is 1/2" where the connection to the lock shield is 3/4". I'm not changing the valves, yet, just the rads. Next time the heating system needs drained I'll look at updating the valves.

Also, Tado does not supply valves, just the sensing head.

It's worth changing the valve to fit the TRV, so that you're not fannying about with cheap plastic adapters.

The rads I took off have metal couplings, was hoping to just be able to get the right sizes of those (and then get someone more competent to replace the valves in future).

Im pretty sure i know what your talking about, yeah you can swap them onto the new rad. Question what kind of heating system do you have in? is it a combi

Not a combi, unpressurized. Might go unvented in future and they'll pressure test everything then. I may see if I can get the tails out of the old rads and if they are salvageable, reuse them. If not, stump for getting my plumber to just drain the system down and fit new valves. The TRV valve bodies aren't the best anyway.

Taking the rads off (that's 3 now I've taken off, but not fitted any, the plumber installed the towel rad as it needed so pipe jiggery pokery) I noticed there was no tape on the threads between the tail and the valves. Is that normal because it's a compression fitting?

I would think I'd definitely need to tape the tails when they get screwed I to the rads, however.

I can see why you dont want to drain it now. Yeah you'll be able to get them out we use a spanner and a you'll need a big allen key to remove the one i think your taking about.

There will have been take but as you screw it into the radiator it usually comes off but will seal it.(Im guessing you talking about the tail thats in the radiator)

I mean there's no tape on the valve, where the nut from the tail screws into. I'm sure there's tape on the thread of the tail that screws into the rad.

I could get off my arse and go have a look, but it's all the way over there...

This is the side that went into the TRV. That looks easy enough with a spanner. I have a 1/2" blanking nut on the valve I left in situ.

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This is the lock shield side, I have a 3/4" blanking nut on that valve. There does indeed appear to be a female hex fitting. What size of allen key beast does one need for that?

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Excuse the pubes, I don't think they're mine. Does that make it better or worse as a photograph?

You'll need what I said to remove them, yeah you dont need tape on the face of the value to the connector on the stud. Just clean the faces before you put them back on.

big allen key

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFXFRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_2GEE26AZPFZBD7KCD6F4

?

That exactly is what youll need by the looks of your picture, If you have a set of grips you might be able to take them off with that but dont use them on the face if your gonna use this method.

Much obliged

No worries, sorry I couldn't tell you the size, i just have one in my tools. Lol

Of course, the first of the two rads is 37 3/4" or 958mm wide. FML

Some studs on the radiator but they won't be that pretty but if your saving money just do it and fix the pipes when you've some money and can get someone else to do it.

What’s the alternative to drywall anchors, when the cavity behind the drywall is full of insulation and the anchor can’t get a purchase on the back of the plasterboard because it’s all fluff?

Are molly screws any better?

These work quite well in those circumstances. Obviously consider the specifications for load.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-500-pack/8592H?tc=EC5&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrIL536eL8AIVs4FQBh1jagCmEAUYAiABEgJFKvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds