Surly Bike Owners

Hi forum Straggler owners. I've a question about wheel position in the dropout (mine is, I think, the 2016 model, with the horizontal dropouts). I'm running gears (2x10). I've always positioned the wheel as far to the rear as it'll go in the dropout, without issue, but this evening after fitting a new rear tyre the wheel slipped forward on one side as I got out of the saddle going up a hill. Definitely possible I wasn't paying enough attention when tightening the QR. There are no dropout screws fitted (and haven't been since I bought it new/complete). Should the wheel be all the way back in the dropout? (Does it matter?!) Should I fit dropout screws? Cheers!

Anyone have any leads on a M/L Troll or 56cm rim brake 26" LHT?

I’m about to sell my medium troll, you looking for f&f or complete? Am in Sheffield so would (I assume) need posting so f&f probably easier.

Large Bridge Club of interest?

Frame and forks, basically after a much stiffer version of my runaround. Still a bit confused about M vs. L with the Troll. I usually default to L at 6', but the reach is much longer than my 80s MTB.

No thanks, have good rim brake wheels already.

Thought you might, but worth a shot. I had a medium troll for a while and am a little taller. I used it as a runaround too, was fine if you don't mind a fair bit of seatpost showing.

Reckon it would probably be ok - I’m 5’ 10” and I run it with a short bastard stem because it’s too long for me otherwise. Could be my weeny little t-Rex arms to blame tho.

Another troll owner may be able to chime in with their opinion.

I think the default answer to slipping qr is to first check you are using a Shimano cam QR. Then check it's done up properly. That should be the end of any wheel slip issues.

Same here, 180cm on a medium, run a 100mm stem but a straight seatpost..

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Thanks, yeah they are Shimano cam skewers. It must have just been me rushing to get out in the remaining evening light and not tightening properly. Won’t do that again. I did order some of the dropout screws but not convinced I’ll use them, I find it painful enough getting the wheel out! (esp with mudguards fitted)

Cheers, good to know. I'd be looking at using Richey Kyote which is quite backswept but also have T Rex tendancies. Current frame is about 390mm reach / 560mmTT with a Nitto Bullmoose which effectively equates to an in-line stem and it feels good for pootling around town and anything not-too steep. Only problem is it feels like a wet noodle when loaded up with shopping.

This picture makes me wanna go on a touring trip

I feel you.. pic is from Sierra Nevada in January a few years back, piece of cake for the bike even with the low end gear and carrying too much stuff

Because of the forces involved, the rotor side will want to slip backwards when braking, the drivetrain side will want to slip forward, as you found out.

The dropouts of that model are wrong. Both screws are at the back, therefore nothing stops the forward slippage of the drive side. I would fit the screws and run it as close to the front as possible to limit that. I run mine the opposite to how you do, all the way to the front.

They quietly fixed it in the following year models.

650b make the Straggler even more sluggish, even more fun

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650b make the Straggler even more sluggish

Is this the new ‘no gravel’ bit?

Still looks very in proportion.

Ah nice thanks for the blog post link. On mine the drive-side screw does go in from the front, so my Straggler must be the first version where they made that change. I've now fitted the screws (with the wheel in the same position as before) so hopefully extra protection against slipping.

Looks great! What fork is that?

Nah, this is the traveling bike

It's a Cannondale one from those they sent out to replace the recalled CAADX ones

Really like this. Simple and nice.

This build makes me want a Surly Straggler

https://www.instagram.com/p/COS8-pLgnpx/?igshid=dluxz9jszx3v

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just get a hybrid

Not as expensive.