Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

They have to be bedded in even from scratch. Just be nice when you ask the shop . Look i dont think the front is too good could you have a look again for me please .

For sure go back, be nice because they're probably super busy but I imagine they'd want to make sure their jobs are all up to scratch.

thanks both!

ofc I will be nice, I just want to know exactly why something like this would happen, as hydro disc brakes are still a bit of a mystery to me

Shop contaminated the pads. Take it back and kill them in the face. Nicely.

noted

Ooooooooo déjà vu

Am I right in thinking that the bleed process is nearly exactly the same as SRAM HRD (Drop levers)?

I don't remember all the steps but yeah, it's pretty similar.

Jaffa cakes should help👍

Ask Neil to look at them for you

Bleed screws incorrectly torqued. Obvs.

Silly question; DA 9170 calipers. Front and Back are the same right? just with an adapter plate for the front pre fitted that can be removed?

You are correct. Just don't miss the tiny little split pins that are meant to hold the bolts in place if you want to remove the adapter.

Question on juintech R1s:

A used pair, I've never used hydro or semi-hydro before so all new to me. Have fitted new pads, gone through the process to set up as per manual. Cabling is all fine. When pulling the levers, or closing the caliper by hand to test, the pistons dont move the pads nearly close enough to bite on the rotors. Only a little bit of movement inwards, right at the end of the caliper travel, when the actuated arm kob is adjusted all the way out. Have tested with actuated arm at all postitions, no change.

I know these are mineral oil and aren't designed to need bleeding etc., or is there some fiddling with the bleed screw to be done? Or am I just missing something?

Bleed can't hurt if they're used, maybe previous owner messed with them.

Hmm okay, do you know how that's done on the R1s? Can't find much online

They were running fine before to be fair, I stripped and cleaned the bike (including the calipers), and changed pads etc. so think I might have upset something along the way...

I think you whack a syringe on both bleed ports, make sure pistons are retracted, bleed block of some sort in and arm is adjusted out, then push some new fluid through. I seem to remember my set didn't work well when adjusted all the way out, they needed a turn or two in, even when running new pads.

Had problems with my own recently and below is the bleed procedure I got from UK distributor. Recently upgraded to the 4 pot gt-f and they have been flawless.

Universal bleed kit with port adapters to fit caliper.
Shimano bleed block
Mineral oil.

Take out pads and clean caliper.
Fill one syringe full and attach both to bleed port.
Place bleed block between pistons. Pass mineral oil from one syringe to other.
Operate actuating arm.
Once you are happy no air in caliper press down on both syringes to push pistons out to meet the bleed block.
Remove syringes and replace bleed screws.

That's super useful, thanks a lot. So this set would have the adapters I need?
https://epicbleedsolutions.com/products/universal-bleed-kit?variant=30375397523530

When you say arm is adjusted out when bleeding, do you mean the adjustble knob is screwed all the way out, so arm is closest to caliper body, ie. you bleed with it in this position?

What's the best place to buy pads? Somewhere like superstar?

Uberbike seems good, sure there are lots of options

Can't go wrong with Uberbike:

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/

Cheers.

Does anyone know what bolt I need to secure flat mount sram force calipers on to the frame (calipers are on mount already)

...and where I can buy them?

1 Attachment

The length is dependant on how thick your frame is. But they’re M5 bolts. SRAM use T25 button heads.