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Had problems with my own recently and below is the bleed procedure I got from UK distributor. Recently upgraded to the 4 pot gt-f and they have been flawless.
Universal bleed kit with port adapters to fit caliper.
Shimano bleed block
Mineral oil.Take out pads and clean caliper.
Fill one syringe full and attach both to bleed port.
Place bleed block between pistons. Pass mineral oil from one syringe to other.
Operate actuating arm.
Once you are happy no air in caliper press down on both syringes to push pistons out to meet the bleed block.
Remove syringes and replace bleed screws.
scultura-
That's super useful, thanks a lot. So this set would have the adapters I need?
https://epicbleedsolutions.com/products/universal-bleed-kit?variant=30375397523530When you say arm is adjusted out when bleeding, do you mean the adjustble knob is screwed all the way out, so arm is closest to caliper body, ie. you bleed with it in this position?
.ben
Question on juintech R1s:
A used pair, I've never used hydro or semi-hydro before so all new to me. Have fitted new pads, gone through the process to set up as per manual. Cabling is all fine. When pulling the levers, or closing the caliper by hand to test, the pistons dont move the pads nearly close enough to bite on the rotors. Only a little bit of movement inwards, right at the end of the caliper travel, when the actuated arm kob is adjusted all the way out. Have tested with actuated arm at all postitions, no change.
I know these are mineral oil and aren't designed to need bleeding etc., or is there some fiddling with the bleed screw to be done? Or am I just missing something?