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  • Thanks! presumably the fine grade won't leave unsightly scratches?

  • Just a little bodge, but, we have this ugly tumble dryer

    I would love to box it in properly with the boiler, but its not my flat. However, I found this offcut of MDF by the bins that was the PERFECT size, so gave it a couple of coats of paint and some satin varnish:

    Made a little support to sit on:

    Add some plumbing fittings and curtian rings:

    Then get ask your sweet and kind mother to make some curtians, and bingo-bango-changeo, Mr. Tumble-Bumble is hidden and we have some extra worktop for storage

  • Is that the pad from a bra that's come loose and got beyond the drum. I say that because bra wires and collar stiffeners are a great source of income for the washing machine repair man.

  • It will, but that section should be out of sight below the top of the seat tube.

  • Ha, you're right of course, but I'll know it's scratched...

    Once I get over myself I'll order some of that emery cloth!

  • I'm no expert on this but my instinct would be to drill a small exploratory hole to try to find something solid behind it, then once I know the depth of the good stuff, fix some kind of threaded fitting in to that that the rail can be attached to, then patch the rest of it up with filler, then repaint. The entire room. Le sigh.

    I guess it's clear that the plaster can't take it, presumably because of the movement and stress that happens when the curtains are pulled / unpulled, so you need to find something more solid to get in to.

    Or just patch it and fit blinds or, heaven forbid, shutters.

  • Was my first guess too but partner insisted she wears no padded bras...i am gonna move the machine out tonight and have a look whether I can see anything up top. If not, I guess whatever it is it will come out in small pieces.

    Is it difficult to get behind the drum to get stuff out?

  • Found the cable, NYY-J

  • Here are the full details


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  • I had the same thing happen to me in a place I rented in an old mansion block. I couldn’t work out how to get a solid fixing in the surface. Neither plasterboard nor masonry, just dry mush inches deep. I gave up and referred it to the landlord but left before he fixed it, if indeed he did fix it.

  • I’ve PM’d about the cobra 😆

  • What's the quickest way to fill a couple of short chases ? They will end up behind backsplash/tiles so doesn't need an amazing finish.


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  • Legend!

    Cheers. Going to have to look at the job again tomorrow. Will hopefully manage to avoid running cables on the outside, but this is a good backup.

  • Unfortunately this is our house! I think @Howard probably has the most practical solution, short of installing racist window fixtures.

  • I have a bundle of three network cables. One is in use for an access point which uses power over ethernet (24V), the other two are unused. I want to cut into one of the unused ones so I can add a connection there.

    Is there a non-destructive way to detect which is the live cable?

  • Any help appreciated.

    I’ve removed some wire trunking and th plaster coat perhaps(??) has peeled away in areas. I’m now reading about skim coating .

    Questions:

    1. I’m about to paint the walls. Can I just paint over these patches?
    2. If so, straight off with my normal paint or some sort of underlay thing?
    3. If not, should I peel this off as far as I can?
    4. As a novice is this something I should get someone in to remedy?

    Thanks in advance (ignore black tape, just there temporarily to hold wires now I’ve removed trunking)


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  • Connect a tone generator and use a probe to work out which cable that is. Either disconnect the AP and plug the generator into that cable for a while or identify both of the others. Be careful with PoE and cheap tone generators as they can destroy each other.

    Something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGIANT-Tracker-Detector-Multifunction-Ethernet/dp/B01HJQ4JA4/ (I haven't used that one)

  • There are probably (definitely) better qualified people than me, but if I were doing it (and I have done similar recently) I would knock/peel off anything obviously loose. If you tried, you'd probably end up taking the whole lot off. I went as far as I though would be OK without the rest coming off by itself. Then I tidied up the edge with a stanley knife, put a thin skim of filler over the area, sanded smooth and then painted. If you don't fill, the paint is unlikely to cover/mask the "step". I justified not doing the whole area as it didn't seem like it would come off of its own accord and if it does, then I'll do it properly (strip everything and redo). This way if it works, it's a nice cheap and easy fix.

  • Just use bonding and don't overfill.

  • Okay thanks for advice. I feel like perhaps a bit more will come away easy enough, but after a short point it would become effort to remove.

    I'll give this a go.

  • I’m quite enjoying our racist window fixtures tbh.


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Home DIY

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