Home DIY

What does the manufacture recommend?

A reasonably large rawl plug would be just fine as long as it has a good few mounting points.

you will end up smashing massive holes in to the wall then fitting anchor bolts for a 10kg tv, I suspect ;)

Haven't picked it up yet, so don't know what the recommendationsare, couldn't see any details online.

Current telly is only 4kg but would be nice to make sure it could handle a 43" telly (which is usually 8kg or so).

Plus it's going to spend most of its time at almost full extension.

I know the thread is DIY, but thats a suggestion from a DIYer if ive ever seen it.

But its all horses for courses, PTFE tape wouldnt work on what is being described with a waste, so I would always silicon it top and bottom as the washer never seal if you do it dry. You couldn't PTFE tape a flat washer.

If the door has the usual Euro groove around the edge of the frame, you could fit one of these to the top of the door and onto the frame to stop it opening too far and damaging the hinges against the brickwork.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mila-door-restrictor-satin-stainless-steel-100mm/5325P

However, I wouldn't leave a door open expecting it to stay put with one of those ^. If a gust takes the door, they aren't strong enough to stop it at the end of its travel as theres lots of leverage on the restrictor. Cue snapped hinges or a bent door.

If it's going to be left wide open, or shut, a (450mm) stainless Steel cabin hook on the wall and the staple installed onto the bottom of the door works well.
150mm sort of size ends up with a load of leverage on it, if someone (or wind) closes the door.

No, right, I meant tape the lower leak, and don't cross thread it (obvs).

You can also tape the top one where the nut is - with a slotted waste you need a good seal between nut and thread too.

Roger that. This subject slightly stresses me out as I had to fix ours right before we moved because it sensed we'd sold our flat and started dripping...

Right. I'm going to be filling this thread with dumb questions about my new house, so apologies in advance. Here's the first one:

I need to run some cables around our Victorian (well, Edwardian, just) terrace. Ethernet to various places around the house for ethernet wall sockets/wi-fi access points, there's also no doorbell transformer/power to the front door but I want a Nest doorbell and our thermostat is shit and battery powered, and I want a Nest.

The whole place was redone a few years back except for the kitchen/bathroom at the back, so the walls are all straight and perfect. Better to run them beneath the floors then? The whole place is covered in el cheapo oak flooring which we hate, so I'm happy to wreck some of it, and this seems like the easier option than chasing into the walls then having to make that good?

We're going to need to move/change some radiators too, because while well executed they are all wrong - e.g. pointlessly massive long radiator in hall, radiator in stupid place in loft bedroom etc. - so some floor is going to have to come up anyway for that.

I have a bunch of ST4.2 self-tapping pan head screws (for attaching a desktop to a desk frame).

I would prefer to use insert nuts* and machine screws instead, as I'll be needing to move the desk around occasionally.

Does the 4 in ST4.2 mean that I need M4 fixings?

None of the size guides that I have found show the actual diameter of the screws.

* These things:

^ I answered the question myself - the 4.2 bit is the diameter.

Aye lift the floors and drill holes in the joists and run the cables that way, sparks do it that way.

I used exactly those threaded inserts in M4 to fit the top to this wee table recently. Trying to remember what drill I used for the inserts themselves.

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Any paint recommendations for a slightly damp 1890s cellar? I've seen posts elsewhere recommending clay paint. We're adding air bricks and going to have the front of the house rerendered at some point but the cellar will never be completely dry so looking for something breathable, rather than a barrier.

Whitewash is pretty traditional for that sort of thing.

We have all these problems! Let me know how you get on and the ways it can all go horribly wrong.

I need to run some cables around our Victorian (well, Edwardian, just) terrace. Ethernet to various places around the house for ethernet wall sockets/wi-fi access points

Not directly related to your question but if you are doing this I'd suggest doubling up the wires. Ethernet is useful for distributing audio and video too but it needs to be separate from your general network. I've got network cables going to each room but it would be useful to have two in some cases.

Also useful to have it in random places like under the stairs.

Any thoughts on what's caused this floorboard buckling? Several locations. (Not my house - yet...)

No obvious signs of things pushing up from below, so I'm thinking flooding.

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100% water- either a burst pipe or flooding.

What's more satisfying than taking weeks of accumulated shit to the tip?

Sitting in your fully furnished living room with a beer watching the cycling.

I bought a cheap (£80) drill press which, having gone to the trouble of assembling, I now realise is not fit for purpose. If anyone wants to take it off my hands for a nominal amount they are welcome to it. Pickup SE London

Edit: now with photo

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Last year I had bags and bags of soil and crap in the garden from digging out the front garden for the hedge, and also a load of ruined stuff from the cellar after the sewage flood of 2020.

I'd got so used to it just being there all the time, it felt like getting a whole new garden when I got shot of it all.

Found out why there's a bounce in the floor...

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Definitely water, though it could be simply expansion due to heat/cool cycles, or seepage from any side or below. Has the place been unlived in for awhile? Humidity will be different in an empty house.