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• #3877
Evaporust is pretty great. I’ve been put on to it through this forum myself. Not sure about derusting a frame though or if that would do anything to the paint. I did see someone somewhere talking about building a frame shaped bath with guttering I think. Not sure if they did it but could work.
@SideshowBob put me on to the Evaporust gel, which you can paint on. That worked extremely well on the chrome barrel of an Airlite hub.
NB thanks on the Hobbs. It’s definitely seen life! Looking forward to building it up. It’s at Argos though as a template for the one being refinished.
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• #3879
Sorry @SideshowBob, I forgot to reply to you last night. Yes I'd had a good look at that catalogue, its very useful. I think that is the only model that uses the Continental lug design that my frame has. The lugs do look great, as you can see.
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• #3880
We were recently talking about early QR Campagnolo/ FB hubs recently. I stumbled across some pics of the ones I had. Seem to remember these were early 50s FB hubs which should have had an FB logo but had Campagnolo on the barrels instead. Early 50s FB hubs had a shoulder this shape, while the following Campagnolo branded ones had a slightly different shoulder shape. These therefore should have an FB logo, not Campagnolo.
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• #3881
👍
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• #3882
There was some reason why I pictured it with a Resilion and a Normandy hub but I can’t remember why...
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• #3883
Hi
The Hodge? Difficult as there are very few that come to market, if I was putting it on ebay - which I will be soon - I'd be looking at a reserve of £225 and be hopeful of £250. I may of course be way off the mark, hence why I say it's difficult. Did you have a figure in mind? -
• #3884
Something of a disastrous ride out on my RRA recently-resulting in a busted knee and an expensive crank rendered useless. RRA specific cranks were renowned for breaking when first produced it seems, so much so that a newer model was introduced that was slightly beefed up. I always suspected mine was one of the more delicate earlier ones, and I guess this confirms it! I was only riding along slowly, just put my weight on the pedal to pass a pedestrian on a shared use path and the next thing I knew I was in a heap on the floor.
A note; this is the 3rd crank I have broken, and the 2nd steel one in this manner (The other being a double fluted BSA,) so either I have very bad luck with crank arms or there is something in my pedalling action that stresses steel cranks and causes them to snap, maybe due to a torsional twist? (I am not very big or powerful at only 70kg max).
Unsure what to do with the RRA now, I do love it, they are beautiful machines when they have all their specialist equipment, and it was built the same year as my Dad was born, which is nice. But it's not in original paint and an RRA without it's specialist parts is really just another nice clubman bike produced by a large manufacturer. I doubt I will find another RRA crank anytime soon, so maybe it's time to sell up in favour of something else in original paint....
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• #3885
.
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• #3886
That sucks. How bad is the knee?
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• #3887
i think it will fix ok fairly quickly. Pretty sure I hyper extended it when the crank snapped as I went one way and the bike the other-the back ligament or tendon to my calf feels very sprained, but i can walk with a straighten leg and pedal slowly. Just can put much weight/force on it at the moment, but hoping rest will help it.
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• #3888
Wishing you a speedy and full recovery!
One thing, if those early delicate cranks snap often, you should be able to find another one 🙃 Not that you’re likely to fancy it.
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• #3889
Heal up fast.
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• #3891
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• #3892
yes, part of the reason I might sell this bike-not sure I fancy riding those cranks again even if I do find another one, and I don't need a wall-hanger for decoration.
So something in original paint with maybe a Stronglight 49D might be the way I go. -
• #3893
😂 (that would harsh)
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• #3894
I’m trying to resist all my bikes just having Stronglight cranks, bb and headset, Lyotard MB platform pedals, ... I’m starting to add Airlite hubs to my list, there’s not much arguing against them.
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• #3895
They do seem to be the safe options, if not the most original choice. Can look smart though on the right frame
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• #3897
And a pretty original PT Stallard that's been hanging around ebay for a while
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• #3898
Oh yes! Higgins Ultralite tandem, luckily way too big for me but looks like a bit of a bargain at £400 ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144001053743
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• #3899
Anyone know anything about early 50s pumps?
I’ve just impulse bought an Apex Ultralite (I’ve got a gut feeling now I’m sober that this is mid to late 50s) AND (😭😭😭) an Apex Grand Prix the look of this is earlier to my eye.
Any of you have dates for these?
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• #3900
Pics please. Agreed re dating for the Ultralite if that’s the alloy one. I couldn’t pin it down myself but came to a similar conclusion.
@veloham I have always loved Hobbs. I have two, the first, a single speed 1948 Raceweight, was my first purchase and had been repainted by the previous owner, second is a 1947 Superbe, but that has been previously stripped and hand painted and is very shabby (it does mean that I am slightly less anxious when riding it to the pub). That was why I was so keen to keep the Claud Butler paintwork. Your Hobbs Criterium frame is excellent, just the sort of paintwork I have always wanted as it speaks of a life led!
I must admit I am tending towards making the best of the current paintwork and decals. They might not be quite correct, but cleaned up and rust treated, its likely to look better with the patinated parts that I'm likely to be able to get hold of. I'll search out the Crankalicious products, they sounds good. I definitely need to make the best of what is left of the paint and decals.
Have you got any ideas for whole frame rust removal? I have noticed that people recommend Evaporust, but I'm not sure how practical it is to dip a tandem frame!