• What kind of condition parts are you planning to put on it? Period correct 1937 parts in good enough condition to sit well with a refinish are not going to come easy or cheap. You might be better cleaning back the finish you’ve got and maybe applying the ‘correct’ repro decals. H Lloyd will do water slide if you ask / pay for them, which might look better. Personally I wouldn’t be too bothered about saving an earlier refinish.

  • @veloham that is part of my dilemma I suppose. Decent condition 1930s parts aren't common or cheap. I'm unlikely to be able to afford really good condition parts. I'm not really keen on re-plating, although that is a possibility I suppose. Great call regarding water-slide decals. If H.Lloyd do them I will definitely ask about them.

  • @RgrahamH Apologies if I’m telling you stuff you know ... I’ve refinished a few frames (that had no original finish left) and there’s a lot of fun in that for me. But yeah the problem is the components. I started with 1970s bikes and it’s possible to get stuff looking really minty, different story going back another 20-30 years. I’ve largely been disappointed replating - it almost always looks replated, hard to explain. For me the look I’m now aiming at is a bike that has been well looked after for decades but is old. Let’s see.

    One great project I’ll start a thread for some day is I have 2 Hobbs Criterium that can only be about a month apart. One is ratty but really cool original paint and one had lost all original finish and I’m getting that one repainted similarly. The best of both worlds :) At the moment I’m more excited about building the original paint fixed gear, rather than refinished Simplex TdF geared one. But that swings back and forth.

    The products I used on the original paint were Crankalicious and worked well. The wash and wax I guess nothing particularly special but the Mayo Jaune has a mild cutting compound that helps bring back the lustre of the paint. Most important thing is to go easy and test somewhere unnoticeable! I tried really fine steel wool to try and take off the patches of yellowed lacquer (on advice of someone that does a lot of this and a great job of it) but that was just taking off paint, so I stopped sharpish!

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