Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

I thought these would go for way more as well. Definitely a bargain for someone
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-1940s-1950s-Holdsworth-Allez-Bicycle-Pedals-/203312595289?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Indeed. Both bargains.

Hi
First time on here. There is a AJ Hodge track frame mentioned above, it was up on ebay at the same time as the tandem, I bought the track frame and was sorting out some space in the garage and came upon my purchase in a box and thought I'd investigate. Photo attached, it's in a pretty poor paint condition but sound. I've looked for a frame number but have not located in any of the normal places, any suggestions? C

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Nice,What are your plans for it ?

Back on ebay I think, I have enough vintage track bikes filling my garage at the moment! Any idea of value?

@user126863 was looking for one as they are family to the Hodge

Do you know anything about the frame number and where to find it?

I have a dilemma and I'm interested in the views of the collective. I have a 1937 Claud Butler Ultra Shortbase tandem frame, with some fittings. Although the paintwork is very tatty, my original plan was to preserve this and complete the build with age appropriate parts. I was particularly keen on preserving what was left of the decals.
The more I looked at the frame the more I realised that it was not as original as most of it looked. The cranks are dated 1967 (but all matched) and it has braze-on Mavic canti posts at the rear. Also, although I thought the decals were original, on looking closer I could see pitting of the tubing underneath the paintwork supporting the decals, so they were obviously later, after a refurb at some point. I looked at the Reynolds 531 sticker and, although I can't get an exact match, it looks like it could be from the 60s or 70s. I then found this which dates from 1938. It looks very similar but uses different decals.
So my question to the collective is, should I preserve the paintwork and decals, or repaint with appropriate decals? What are peoples thoughts? Also, is it worth rebuilding with age appropriate parts if it is not original anyway?
Pictures added.

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Hi
Definitely been resprayed over some pitted steel. This can be avoided by asking the painter to prime twice where the pitting is - I had a Freddie Grubb sprayed in the original in flamboyant orange and first time around you could see every small indentation, after stripping and going again it was flawless!
Try Llyods transfers for 531 decals, I think he has the full range to choose from.
As you might have gathered, I'm in favour of stripping back and recreating, rather than saving something that is possibly not original anyway.
C

No , Nothing specific on this builder.

I can see something in your photos on the D/S rear drop out, What does it say ?

I take it that you have looked on the fork steerer ? Under the fork crown as one builder used that location.

Hi
The rear end/drop out reads Luton I guess these were track ends created by AJ. Fork steerer? Nothing, fork crown, underside, haven't looked but this only says the forks are xxxxyysss not the assembled frame and fork
Ta C

What kind of condition parts are you planning to put on it? Period correct 1937 parts in good enough condition to sit well with a refinish are not going to come easy or cheap. You might be better cleaning back the finish you’ve got and maybe applying the ‘correct’ repro decals. H Lloyd will do water slide if you ask / pay for them, which might look better. Personally I wouldn’t be too bothered about saving an earlier refinish.

Hi
Why do you suggest pre 37? I was thinking it was more likely to be40's based on the shape of the lugs, difficult to tell, if the lugs were filed to shape as suggested in the thread.
If I can identify the date of manf. it'll give me an idea of whether to keep or sell on. It had a Chater Lea clip headset which looks 40's. It's in the garage waiting to be cleaned.

I was replying to @RgrahamH :)

I have a 1937 Claud Butler Ultra Shortbase tandem

Thanks, I looked at H.Lloyd but couldn't see an exact match unfortunately.

Specifications on parts from a 38' catalogue http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_38/cb-cat-38-p23.jpg
Which would be tricky to source as per @veloham advice

@veloham that is part of my dilemma I suppose. Decent condition 1930s parts aren't common or cheap. I'm unlikely to be able to afford really good condition parts. I'm not really keen on re-plating, although that is a possibility I suppose. Great call regarding water-slide decals. If H.Lloyd do them I will definitely ask about them.

!!!

When it comes to the decision to tart up what you have or getting back to the base frame and starting from scratch, this can be the result.

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Hi

I am after a Hodge frame, if you are selling this. What price would you be looking for?

@RgrahamH Apologies if I’m telling you stuff you know ... I’ve refinished a few frames (that had no original finish left) and there’s a lot of fun in that for me. But yeah the problem is the components. I started with 1970s bikes and it’s possible to get stuff looking really minty, different story going back another 20-30 years. I’ve largely been disappointed replating - it almost always looks replated, hard to explain. For me the look I’m now aiming at is a bike that has been well looked after for decades but is old. Let’s see.

One great project I’ll start a thread for some day is I have 2 Hobbs Criterium that can only be about a month apart. One is ratty but really cool original paint and one had lost all original finish and I’m getting that one repainted similarly. The best of both worlds :) At the moment I’m more excited about building the original paint fixed gear, rather than refinished Simplex TdF geared one. But that swings back and forth.

The products I used on the original paint were Crankalicious and worked well. The wash and wax I guess nothing particularly special but the Mayo Jaune has a mild cutting compound that helps bring back the lustre of the paint. Most important thing is to go easy and test somewhere unnoticeable! I tried really fine steel wool to try and take off the patches of yellowed lacquer (on advice of someone that does a lot of this and a great job of it) but that was just taking off paint, so I stopped sharpish!

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Here’s a little taster, 1948 Hobbs Criterium - special paint scheme for that model :)

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!!!

@user126665 that frame does look fabulous. If a frame has to be repainted, it might as well be done well, like yours!

RO Harrison for sale
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/362043/