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Thanks good tips. Similar to how I'd ride my full sus mtb, actually translates very well.
I'm running michelin starcross medium front and enduro medium rear with HD tubes. The PO put these on as its what he runs, he said they're the best, and given his riding skill I'm very incled to trust.
Right now I am
Uphill: sitting for tight corners, foot out, leaning in and gassing rear around, sitting for smooth straights, stading when it gets rough leaning forward head over bars knees flexed. I should get some videos to check my form.
Downhill: standing or sitting a bit like above. But a lot slower and more cautious. I need to lean more. I think the other issue is a lot of these are blind enough turns so I can't sensible do anything but be slow down.
One q, should I be able to shift gears standing? Right now I can't, but maybe that's because I can't really brace legs on tank.
skinny-
You’re already way ahead of me then!
Just remember with downhill even if you lock the front you’re probably going to keep sliding forward before you can fall off, giving you precious seconds to release enough to keep rolling and regain some balance.
Check the shift lever position relative to your boots. MX boots need a different lever position and possibly a longer lever. Adv boots need a position not dissimilar to road boots. With MX boots most people have to lift the boot off the peg to kick the downshift.
pdlouche
Yeah we have a lot of loose surface hardpack here and it's probably the least grippy terrain to ride on. It's predictable at least and you'll be surprised how much you can lean and brake on good knobblies. Keep stood up aside from the turns, for flat turns remember you want to be sat forward towards the tank, body upright with weight through the comb of the seat, pushing on the outside peg and through the frame with your boot. Other leg should be straight forward down the forkleg. If you feel like the front is pushing, add gas and dial in some woohoo....