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• #27
Are you planning to email him?
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• #28
I have issues with my front too, after about 6ish months of riding though. New bearing fixed it, cost like around £10. About a month on though I've noticed some play again...
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• #29
might do now yeah
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• #30
what bearings do they take?
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• #31
I think it's just a fault. Replaced the bearing but over time it returns. He sent me a new one but it still has the same fault. The play isn't that bad to be honest. I've just learnt to live with it.
P.s. Mack hubs are cheaper if you buy them directly from him.
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• #32
Not sure, I took mine to SBC and them sorted it. Which suggests it's probably a more standard size and not something weird.
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• #33
the tester approved bearings are skf or fag
pay a little extra and get those if you can
they should last a bit better -
• #34
Crummy bearings tend not to last as long as quality ones.
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• #35
Even a shite bearing should do 6 months without developing loads of play. It might start to feel a bit crummy but play suggest something is wrong with the way the bearing is either being held or preloaded.
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• #36
Built a few pairs of these for customer's in the shop. Luckily he supplied them himself, so i don't have to deal with the aftermath. All have developed play during/after built.
You have couple of options to combat this.if the bearing bore is overmachined you can press the bearings in with some retaining compound which will hold them in the shell.
if the spacing of the bearings is not correct in regards to the axle , you can most probably take the play out using microshims
There is quite a few hubs suffering from option 1 like some novatecs and the like
Few suffer from option 2 , like most of the mavic Tra comp non adjustable hubs on majority of their higher end wheels. Less money spent on machining, tolerances and QC for Mavic and play in the hubs for you. -
• #37
also have an older pair to build and rear hub bearings were not pressed in fully
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• #38
All have developed play during/after built...
if the bearing bore is overmachined you can press the bearings in with some retaining compound which will hold them in the shell.
if the spacing of the bearings is not correct in regards to the axle , you can most probably take the play out using microshims
There is quite a few hubs suffering from option 1 like some novatecs and the like
Novatec track hub = £30 or so, aren't Macks about 5 times that?
Sloppy machining on a mass produced budget hub is one thing...
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• #39
I would never buy Mack hubs or victorie or any other sort of boutique stuff.
Sad thing is that there is a lot less slop on Taiwenese production:/
Best hub for the cash is Halo or clones from the same factory
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• #40
I got the same problem with my front hub too, recently got sent a pair from mack himself.
I did some research on why people have this problem with the front hub.When building the wheel, you dont really notice anything but as the wheel is tensioned tighter, the hub shell stretches so slightly as the spokes are pulled.
the bearing are then not fit as tight into the hub shell as before.I think this is because of the shell it self. its very thin and lightweight.
Even though it does stretch, you can still get a stiff fast wheel-set built up.
I spoke to @ekudduke about this too as he had the same issue and he told me to add a couple drops of locktite to the bearing, making sure not to make a mess of course. This has fixed the problem for him and myself.
Hopefully this is useful to other people with the same problem -
• #41
Another vote for halo track hubs
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• #42
Dura Ace or GTFO >>>
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• #43
you need to do both of the nuts up at the same time
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• #44
I spoke to @ekudduke about this too as he had the same issue and he told me to add a couple drops of locktite to the bearing, making sure not to make a mess of course. This has fixed the problem for him and myself.
when the time comes @pastry_bot remember this to brief to P&L
i also have the same problem on a mack front hub... hmm