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• #28327
One of the reasons our building works quotes are delayed is that we need the pointing on the side return looked at. This needs a scaffold/tower. However, the access is only 700mm wide and regular towers are apparently 850mm. Anyone come across/worked around similar?
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• #28328
Trying to work out why I'm getting damp under a window. Thought I'd solved it by redoing the mastic but still seems to get damp with heavy rain/wind.
Had another look yesterday and my best guess is that this gap could be the problem. What should I be looking to fill this with? Cheers
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• #28329
I have the same problem, so keeping an eye on any suggested solutions!
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• #28330
Previous builder just tacked on some money for scaffold, so I'm glad this one appears to already be more thorough.
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• #28331
Just remembered my uncle runs a building firm back home (not really in touch with extended family so these things slip my mind). So I've asked what he would do in this situation.
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• #28332
Is the access problem an immovable object or a property boundary?
If it's the latter a nice chat with the neighbour to see if you can take down any obstacles and then re-enstate them.
If it's the former how accurate is the 700mm measurement? MiTowers have a 730mm x 1320 footprint could you squeeze one of them in they're rated for 1 person + tools etc but are very good, safe towers ideal for working in smaller spaces. You may be able to squeeze one in.
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• #28333
For something like that I'd mark the radius and then nail 2 5mm sheets of ply (not full sheets but rips of ply to bring the top of your shutter to the desired level) to stakes hammered into the ground. Put the stakes at around 400mm centres. Make sure that the joins on the ply are staggered to add strength. If the stakes go deep enough they should support the shutter but if you're worried then support the too with rakers or pile soil up on the outside of the shutter.
Hope that makes sense.
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• #28334
Next door's side return wall. Need to find my tape measure to double check
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• #28335
Kinda like this? (just happen to be using a CAD programme lol)
I added the extra stakes as I've see that some triangulation support is advisable.
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• #28336
Garage shelves in no1's bedroom (eventually) finally went up. Big thanks to brommers for the lovely spacers.
For once x4 drilling + rawl plugs + screws went seamlessly. Which was nice. Tried those Fischer ones which seem pretty good, although worth noting that they have a relatively big flange. Irrelevant in my case, but Ymmv.
I think we should buy another one and use half of it to go up another stack. Although this cheapo one does have a fair bit of flex, so maybe not.
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• #28337
I need to sand spindles and around detailed doorways...
Is a dremel a worthy investment? Do I try borrow one??
I have a dewalt impact driver and drill 18v with two 5 amp batteries, maybe better to get the even more pricey rotary tool by them? -
• #28338
Knock the spindles out and prise the doorway detail off and take them to PJ Pine in Crystal Palace to be stripped. Having tried both methods, stripping saves a world of pain.
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• #28339
I’ve 5 doors and a flight and hallway of spindles. What sorta cost is that?
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• #28340
I think for the door trims, it was a minimal cost of something like £15. For three door stripped and waxed,woth collection and delivery, it was something like £150.
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• #28341
You need a subtle hand with a Dremel, it's got enough to gouge any chunk of wood you desire and the small tool size makes keeping things uniform over a large area tricky
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• #28342
I would 100% pay someone to do that.
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• #28343
Hmm this feels like a time vacuum.
Real cost/ time vs reward debate -
• #28344
Very much so. I would rather pull my fingernails out than try and sand a spindle with a dremel.
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• #28345
I've got a Cobra Speedheater you'd be welcome to borrow if you REALLY want to try. In Catford.
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• #28346
Somethings are never simple!!
I hate deciding where to draw the line between barely acceptable and perfect -
• #28347
I’ll have a think I’m in SE4 so close by.
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• #28348
You should try the cobra, it's a very generous offer. Your original post was only talking about sanding. I've sanded to paint spindles many times with soft sanding pads (the ones with foam in the middle) and strips of cloth backed sandpaper which you wrap round the spindle and pull back and forward. You have to be careful with that method not to erase too much detail.
It is a monstrous job, boring and mildy painful on hands and the seating position is difficult and you're in a hallway where people need access etc. After a while you work out how many you are doing an hour and once you've stopped weeping you can work out when the punishment will end.
If you're stripping them to the wood and waxing you don't need to worry about the ballache time sink of painting them with 3 or 4 coats either.
tldr - try the cobra it's a great tool I wish I had one 30 years ago.
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• #28349
I'd love some advice on chasing a second conduit to a TV socket...
I've recently moved into a flat where the TV socket is totally in the wrong place - I'd like to move the socket to the other wall but extending it with an f-connector and another piece of cable. I'm wiring up the place for ethernet using rebate skirting board and I thought it would be simple to route the cable to the other wall using the skirting board as well, so I'd like to chase the cable down from the socket to the bottom of the wall for maximum no cables.
However, there's another cable in there (likely for another flat below) that's already chased downwards (in a galvanised conduit).
Can anyone advise if it's sensible/safe/normal/stupid to chase another channel from the other side of the the back box to get my cable down to my floor? I know TV cable is low voltage so I'm not worried about shocks, just whether it's feasible.
See images diagrams for more info:
The back box
A crude diagram
Top down shot of back box showing free knockoutThanks!
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• #28350
Thought I'd post this here first on the off chance that someone might want it.
Venetian blind that was due to be installed but had a tiny fault on one of the tapes at the bottom of the blind.
Smoke Grey with Oyster Grey Tapes, 2390 x 1790, 50mm slats, 50mm tapes. The curtain maker is looking to offload it for £100 if you're interested dm me.
Original cost was £800.
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Nice. I'd like to make a French cleat, but don't have a project which calls for one at the moment.