Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Been casting +20 extreme defensiveness spells all over the place, just incase.

I love a good flounce.

Can anyone remind me what pads I need for my sram rival callipers? When I search there seem to be two distinctly different shapes of pads listed as being compatible?

These callipers:

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This is SRAM road. I think the other shape you're finding is for new AXS calipers.

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Have you asked a engineer ? They should know

Thanks, will look into that. I always assumed sintered were the preferred as resin seem to wear out so much quicker but the first disc bike was an MTB so could be why, new to road bike with discs.

Depends what you want and what you're doing, I think resin are better for most road situations, less power overall but more initial bite and tend to be quieter, they do wear more quickly but not too quickly unless they're covered in mud and grit like winter offroad fun.

Speaking as an engineer, I agree with @Netakure.

Thanks all

I have a whole pile of these now surplus to requirements. Please take them off my hands.

I've just used the last pair of my stash. Will PM

wiggle now makes BH90 stuff: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-shimano-bh90-universal-olive-insert-and-nut

amey you are BH90's biggest fan. all you seem to talk about

Any bodges for a stripped ultegra r8070 bleed port - not the screw?

Help! :(

Edit: I've just bought a hot glue gun...

How stripped? Like no threads left at all? Could try with a tiny piece of PTFE tape wrapped around the screw.

Clive James? Clinton Jefferson? Claw Job? Crabapple Jelly? Crumpled Jacket? My money is on crabapple jelly. Delicious crabapple jelly.

Circle Jerk...

Oof, that's rough. I rounded a bolt on my bleed port screw and while extracting it managed to strip a few of the threads too. Fortunately I have just enough thread left to engage the (new) screw and I've not died yet. As long as you have a few threads left you should be ok.

Like just slots in. :(

Had a tough day bleeding it and the more aggressive thread of the bleed funnel must have stripped it going in and out multiple times. Was definitely a positive engagement the last time.
Genuinely been super careful as well.

Advice: don't use a metal bleed funnel adapter. They're too aggressive. Use a plastic one!! 💸💸💸💸

I am just trying to avoid having to pay Shimano (hose) prices

No thanks, just getting over last night’s gangbang

Edit: I've just bought a hot glue gun...

My inspiration in picture form - having just seen an obviously crash damaged lever go on eBay for £143!!

Turns out you can't swap out the levers on these, so lucky escape there. But im 100% throwing mine on eBay when i can track down a spare... mugs.

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Not sure I'd go the glue gun route - that's where your hands rest on the hoods so any bump would be noticeable.

If you're trying to bodge it I'd probably try adding some plumber's tape to the screw to give it a snug fit as you place it in the bleed port, then wrap over the top of the screw and around the lever body with electrical tape to get a good seal. When you tape the bars it should be covered so you won't notice it

so any bump would be noticeable.

The fact my beautiful S-Works SL7 isn't being / hasn't been ridden is more noticeable.

It's definitely screwed. I think i'm going to go belt and braces here.

1. PTFE around Screw for snugger fit.
   
2. Hot glue the fuck out of it.
   
3. Round it off with a wrap of electrical tape.
   
   

Literally no stock anywhere for left hand or pairs of levers :(

Hot glue does seem rather permanent if you ever want to bleed it again. Perhaps a staged approach?

Mate I feel ya, a shit motorist wrote off my Tarmac SL6 last year so I had to replace it in the height of Covid wave 1 - it was a nightmare sourcing parts.

I would still try the tape wrap first - if it works it'll make bleeding it next time a lot easier but if it doesn't work you can always go in all (glue) guns blazing.