Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

@M_V Thanks I will try some new pads

@grams - matching 6800 levers and calipers, and worked nicely in the past.

I am hoping its the pads and not the rims

thanks!

Anyone have a 40mm recessed brake nut in the parts bin or any idea on where to find one?

New fork is very beefy (56mm circumference) and can’t find one in stock in the UK, China deliveries coming eBay look like I wouldn’t be riding until mid-April

I'd try a real LBS, they're likely to have a box with different sizes kicking around somewhere with the spare mudguard bolts etc.

The stock rear on my Giant, the PR2 disc isn't freewheeling unless I take the wheel off the bike and give the cassette/freehub and little nudge with chainwhip and mallet to get it moving, only to seize up again after a couple days not riding. Is this thing pretty much fubar? Is it worth servicing/getting new freehub? The freehub doesn't look like it's one that pops out like most I've had previously.

Have you taken the freewheel off?

Giant use something similar to the one pictured. You’d need a massive Allen key (12mm?) to take it off. Very straightforward to replace though. I used Giantbikespares when I had to order freehubs for the shop, they’re really nice and knowledgeable about Giant wheels, prices are good too.

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Think it's a big spline drive, M14 or something like that.

Ah thanks, couldn’t remember the name.

No, not sure how how's to do it. I've generally had rear wheels where removal was straightforward once I remove the spindle. Are any instructions online on how to remove this type?

Founds some info. Looks like I'll have to punch out a perfectly good bearing on the non-driveside to be able to use the M14 spline drive to remove the freehub. Seems more trouble than it's worth, but, still cheaper than buying a new wheel I suppose.

Might be wrong about the spline drive. Some discussion of giant hubs with a similar issue here https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=136251

That'll just be a big allen key usually 11mm or 12mm, sometimes 14mm, it's a double hex hole to leave more room for the axle.

Sometimes you'll need to knock out a decent bearing to get to it, those times are a bit annoying.

I'll have a check for you tomorrow in workshop and if so will stick one in the post.

Cheers for the offer @scultura, took @n3il’s advice earlier and headed to the LBS where they sorted me out for £2

I have a 1” threadless fork which I would like to get cut and threaded. Steerer is Reynolds 531 butted 16/13, I have seen numerous threaded forks with the same steerer tube, so assume it can be done, question is who/where?

Guy with a lathe or classic bike builder (Argos/Woodrup?)

It seems to be on of this times, but I think I have a spare bearing so should be good hopefully. Will take a stab at it, but the Giant manual for the hubset does specify the need for M14 spline drive which means a trip to screwfix.

If you haven’t, you might want to check freehub availability before taking the part off.

The part no. should be printed on the side somewhere. If not, the company I mentioned before have a number you can call, and they should know.

Weird being a spline drive, I've never needed one before but good to know for hopefully never needing one in the future.

Just had a quick look at the wheel, and I'm a little gazumped as to how to take it apart. The driveside doesn't seem to have any notches or something that I can grab purchase on, and the non-driveside seems to have two notches that I can't get to with my adjustable spanners as they're quite narrow.

EDIT: Had my coffee and now know I just need to 17mm cone spanners which I don't have to undo from the non-driveside.

@swmlon Have you already tried injecting oil or sprayable grease into the gap between freehub and hub body to try and 'rehydrate' the existing grease to free it up? Why you are continuing with attempts to disassemble it, probably damaging the NDS bearing in the process, when it's probably unnecessary is puzzling.

(As was suggested in the link to the cyclingUK forum I posted above... https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.ph­p?f=5&t=136251)

...But I'd query whether you need to remove the freehub body;

a) as you have it at present you can relubricate the freehub body bearings, free off sticky >pawls etc (put lube between the RH seal and the RH bearing)
...
hth

cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Because I like any opportunity to take a hammer to the bike :D

As to part A, can't see how to get purchase on the orange seal to then relubricate without removing the axle at least.
As to part B, I'm don't understand what they meant by "reshim the freehub body in situ"

I may not have picked the best bit to quote tbh, reshimming the hub isn't really relevant to your issue.

Maybe If you hover your mouse over the blue writing and click the left button you will be taken to the 4 page discussion about the hub, which would be easier than repeating all of it here?

By all means take it apart if you have the time and inclination.

That'll just be a big allen key usually 11mm or 12mm, sometimes 14mm, it's a double hex hole to leave more room for the axle.

This. I've seen a lot of freehubs like that, always went out with one or another allen key.

I’ve misplaced my Vernier- does anyone know the seat clamp size of a cannondale Capo?
Anyone??