-
It's not. Usually you'll have to hold the pedal and push the tool the other way, and that in most cases is enough. This is when everything else fails and the breaker bar is in. Is hard to hold a 175mm crank when the other way you're applying force with a 700mm lever.
Netakure-
That's why I made myself a 700mm long crank extender. It's basically just a 700mm long length of box steel with a foam-lined U-section bit of steel which fits around the crank close to the bottom bracket, with a hole and a custom 9/16" bolt that goes into the pedal hole in the crank to lock it all into place. The effect is to make the cranks 700mm long and provide much more leverage. Very handy for removing cranks and crank spider lockrings when you don't have access to a sturdily mounted vice.
Unfortunately, it's in Switzerland.
-
Is hard to hold a 175mm crank when the other way you're applying force with a 700mm lever.
Which is why using the crank is not the best way to do it.
Use the drivetrain and wheel and the lever on that side is half the diameter of the wheel or around 350mm.
Plus you are stressing everything in the direction its designed to be stressed, not focusing the forces into a 10mm or so (width of a toe strap) patch of the frame that's not designed to take any compression in that direction.
Brommers
M_V
This sounds like a recipe for disaster and totally pointless.
NDS bolt going anti clockwise is like pedalling so you can use the drivetrain/a bit of rear brake to push against.