Any question answered...

I know... My commute is 40km a day, so it does do a fair mileage. I think the bottom bracket might have pretty bad tolerance or something.

This broke up due to tectonic movements over millennia and have become positioned where they are today.

Current theory says that happened several times. First massive continent, Pangea, broke up and the sections travelled the world before crashing together again. Eventually they separated and formed other super-continents), before breaking apart and so on. Scientists think it’s happened 4 or 5 times (Pangea and Gondwana being 2 of those super continents).

Earth is old, yo.

Correction: Pangaea was the most recent, preceded by Gondwana or something...

I got a flat in the rear tire on my turbo bike, and noticed that the bearing are sounding really rough, so I switched to another wheel. I’m using an Elite training tire, but somehow I’ve got serious tire rub with a different wheel. I just can’t get the wheel to go into the frame straight without rubbing on the non drive side. The wheels are both the same size, the same tire, with the same pressure. Is there something I’m completely missing?

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Is there something I’m completely missing?

Dishing error on one of the wheels?

creaky

Which bit of a UN55 creaks?

Is your shell straight (coaxial threads, faces orthogonal to the axis)?

Yes. Put the wheel in backwards and see if it rubs the other side. Standard wheels should be symmetrical relative to the dropouts.

(If it rubs the same side of the frame, the frame isn’t straight)

Which bit of a UN55 creaks?

I don't really know, but whenever I'm accelerating or standing up going uphill it makes quite a bit of noise.

Is your shell straight (coaxial threads, faces orthogonal to the axis)?

This is what I assume is the problem - I think it might just be slightly out and stressing the bb (but I have no knowledge of this kind of thing). Is there a hacky way or measuring this?

Bit stupid suggestion, but I've been caught out by it once before and couldnt figure it out - did you grease the threads when you installed it?

UN55 should be good for at least 10000 miles and then the bearings will be getting rough and gritty. My first suspicion is a creak is something else; ie not tight enough in the shell, cranks on the tapers, pedals done up tight enough etc.

Is there a hacky way or measuring this?

There's barely a non-hacky way. It's not something anybody ever measures, they just chase and face and assume (usually more or less correctly) that the tool deflection will be less than the desired tolerances.

cranks on the tapers

That was my first thought, obvs., but I was trying to be nice 🙂

OK, thanks for the help - it's definitely not the pedals, as I swap them around a bit. The BB is in pretty tight and threads greased, so narrowing down to the cranks... I put them on firmly, tapping with a mallet when tightening and making sure they aren't bottoming out on the tapers. The cranks are 40 years old though and have been on and off quite a bit, so maybe the hole in the crank is just a little too large now?

Yeah I think the mallet might have been where you went wrong there.

I just fixed a really annoying creak on my bike by tightening my rear quick release.

But then it’s a cannondale and this is a known fix for creaking cannondale bottom brackets

Istrudat

more of a light tap in combination with a good wiggle to make sure the cranks are seated properly

a light tap in combination with a good wiggle

Nothing you do with a hammer will match the force the bolts generate when installed properly*, unless your hammer is so big that it is itself responsible for the bearing destruction.

*About 1.5 tonnes, in case you're wondering

Ha, well I have learnt a lot! Thanks for all your help

So we're finally trying to unpack the last of the boxes and I have this one of DVDs. We don't have a dvd player any longer but there are a few classics in here I'd want to keep and watch. What's the best way to (a) rip them and then (b) store them. I presume the latter would be on some kind of hard drive that I can just plug to the TV but it's the former I'm not sure how to do these days. I'm guessing some of them will also be protected too but as it is mine wasn't sure where things were these days with making ripping simpler

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I wouldn't bother and just download via torrent when needed.

don't have a dvd player

There's your trouble. I think spending up to £30 on a reputable branded player might be the simplest solution

I wouldn't bother and just download via torrent when needed.

.
@PQR Charity shop and torrent.

If you really want to rip them then Handbrake and a USB thumbdrive will do the job.
Depending on the TV then you may or may not be able to play h265 encoded videos which, if so, would mean the 50ish DVDs there should just about fit on a 32GB thumbdrive. Call it 64GB to be safe, and then get a 128GB because they're so cheap.

just about fit on a 32GB...Call it 64GB...get a 128GB

But check the limits of whatever you're plugging it in to first.

Yes! Crudely checked the wheel and is out by a few mm. Now I'm going to attempt to fix the issue. Wish me luck.

I use MakeMKV which deals with most (all?) DVD protection. Also allows you to e.g. ignore any streams under half an hour, so you only get the main feature. You may want to keep the raw uncompressed MKV files (even if your TV can't play them) as well as compressed MPG or whatever.

But I'm not up to speed on playing them direct on the telly, as I have a (completely overkill) server to play them via a RPi client.